While the carillon tower is the undisputed star, the El Retiro Tour at Bok Tower Gardens offers a completely different, intimate perspective on the gardens’ history. The link between the main gardens and the El Retiro estate is a path that feels like turning a page in a storybook. We left the familiar, expansive vistas of the Singing Tower behind and crossed into a world of intimate, old-world charm. Visiting during the holiday season added a layer of pure magic—this wasn’t just an El Retiro Tour at Bok Tower Gardens; it was a step into a perfectly preserved Christmas card from the 1930s.
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Table of Contents
The Journey: Getting to Bok Tower Gardens
Getting to Bok Tower Gardens is a key part of the day trip experience from Orlando. The roughly 60-minute drive south on I-4 and connecting highways leads you into the heart of Florida’s historic citrus country. Nestled on the Lake Wales Ridge, one of the state’s highest points. The gardens offer a refreshing change of pace and scenery that begins the moment you leave the city behind.
PRO TIP: Your essentials are a camera and comfy shoes. Just a heads-up—the tour does not allow any food or drink inside the El Retiro mansion.
El Retiro Tour makes a grand, festive entrance
The magic begins before you even step inside. Festive greenery framed the El Retiro mansion, a stunning example of Mediterranean Revival architecture. A classic, lush wreath adorned the heavy wooden door, its red bow a vibrant welcome against the warm coquina stone walls. The grounds of El Retiro, more formal and private than the main gardens, were subtly lit. Twinkling lights traced the outlines of archways and highlighted the sparkling berries on native holly bushes, setting the stage for the warmth within.
The Story of El Retiro: A Family Retreat
But first, a story. The home’s name, El Retiro, is Spanish for “The Retreat.” It was built not for Edward Bok himself, but as a lavish winter residence for his brother-in-law and sister, Christina and Charles Buck. The Bucks were part of Bok’s vision for the entire mountain—a harmonious community of family and beauty. While Edward Bok focused on creating the transcendent Singing Tower and gardens for the public, El Retiro served as the private family estate next door, a secluded haven for relaxation and entertaining. Walking up the path, you’re stepping into what was essentially the family compound of the benefactors behind this National Historic Landmark.
Touring the El Retiro Historic Home: Room by Holiday Room
Our El Retiro Tour at Bok Tower Gardens began not at the grand front door, but at a more utilitarian entrance—a fitting start that hinted at the home’s dual life of public elegance and private function. The docent explained that while the home was a retreat. It was far from simple. The Bucks, with their three children, used this Spanish villa in Florida as a seasonal home for about two decades, hosting friends and family from the north. The family gathering history felt real and joyous during the holidays.
Our docent immediately revealed a hidden gem: a small powder room just off the entrance, added for guests arriving by car. Its floor was paved with vibrant, historic tiles from Cuba, while the decorative wall tiles, a stunning Mediterranean pattern, were made in Tunisia. It was a dazzling preview of the global craftsmanship woven throughout the home.
Behind the Scenes: The Butler’s Pantry & Kitchen
From there, we descended a short flight of stairs into the heart of the home’s operations: the Butler’s Pantry. Simply decorated but rich with history, this functional space held the elegant Buckingham china tea service and the original Buck family dinner plate settings, carefully stored. A charming, period-typed recipe for mint juleps sat on a shelf, a quiet testament to the hospitality that flowed from this room.
This pantry connected directly to the kitchen, where the staff, under the direction of the family’s long-time butler, John Kneier, prepared all the fine meals. The docent pointed out the original, wall-length GE refrigerator and massive Garland stove, nodding to a displayed recipe for cream of spinach soup, a reported family favorite. Most fascinating was the original house intercom system mounted on the kitchen wall. It was cutting-edge technology for its time that connected the family’s private world to the service quarters.
The Heart of Hospitality: The Dining Room & Round Room
A doorway led us from the working world directly into the elegance of the dining room. The contrast was striking. This was where the Buck family entertained and took all their formal evening meals. Our docent explained that Mr. Buck sat at the head of the table, enjoying a magnificent view of the illuminated gardens through the patio doors. With a smile, she pointed out a subtle secret: a discreet button for the intercom system was hidden under the rim of his chair. This allowed him to silently summon the butler from the kitchen we had just left. During our holiday visit, this room was breathtaking. The long table was set for a festive feast, the centerpiece a magnificent arrangement of pinecones and camellias, with garlands framing the doorway. The holiday magic in this room, layered over its history of sophisticated entertaining, was palpable.
Just off the dining room, we passed through a stunning architectural feature: the Round Room. This unique circular space formed the base of the home’s west tower. I was captivated by the fully hand-carved cypress door leading into it. The intricate floral and geometric panels were a true masterpiece of craftsmanship. The docent explained that this room served as an antechamber. A graceful waiting room for dinner guests to gather before being announced. For our visit, a lovely, understated nativity scene stood on a small table, a quiet nod to the season amidst the room’s striking architecture.
The Home’s Hub: Lower Hall & Mr. Buck’s Office
From there, we entered the Lower Hall, the true nexus of the home. This space revealed El Retiro’s two distinct entrances. One, the more formal front door for guests arriving by chauffeured vehicles, and the other, a garden entrance used by those walking over from the nearby Mountain Lake Estates, like Anton Brees, the garden’s first carillonneur. It was a reminder that this was a social hub within a private community.
Off this hall was a small, purposeful room: Mr. Buck’s Office. In contrast with the tiled floors elsewhere, this room had wood flooring. Our docent noted this was intentional. It created better acoustics for the radio he kept here. This was where Charles Buck managed his affairs with the Bethlehem Steel Company, making phone calls and handling correspondence. It felt palpably like the “brain” of the retreat, where the business of the northern industrial world was conducted from a sun-drenched Florida villa.
Family Life: The Loggia & Formal Living Room
Continuing into the Loggia, we entered what truly functioned as the family’s casual living room. Large, open pocket doors illuminated the space as they opened to the gardens. Our docent explained that one side opened onto a secluded Mediterranean-style garden with a tranquil fountain, adorned with lush bromeliads and ferns. The other side offered a stunning contrast: a wide, expansive lawn with sweeping views down to the serene pond. During our visit, a large, cheerfully decorated Christmas tree stood in the center of this airy room. It was easy to picture the Buck family here—reading, playing games, or simply enjoying the famed Florida sunshine in their own private, indoor-outdoor sanctuary.
Stepping through a grand archway from the Loggia, we entered the formal living room. It was a sight to behold. The mood shifted from casual brightness to elegant warmth. A magnificent stone fireplace, adorned with festive garlands and stockings, anchored the room. Plush, comfortable furnishings surrounded it—this is where the family would have gathered for evening conversations. During the holidays, the room’s centerpiece was a splendid, formal Christmas tree. It was decorated with gleaming ornaments and delicate tinsel, standing proudly beside a grand piano. According to the docent, this room served formal events and musical performances, unlike the casual Loggia nearby. The layered holiday décor, from the tree to the mantle, felt like the peak of the home’s festive spirit.
Ascend to the Private Quarters
Our docent then drew our attention to a discreet, closed door just off the living room. She explained with a knowing smile that this was Charles Buck’s hidden escape route. Behind it, a steep, winding stone spiral staircase rose directly to his personal sanctuary.
We ascended to find his private master bedroom. Tastefully decorated yet somewhat austere, it featured a single bed. Our docent shared that Charles Buck’s wife had passed away just before El Retiro was built. A poignant photograph of her sat on the dresser, a constant presence in his retreat. A small balcony offered a private overlook of the gardens he loved. The short hallway opened into his master bath, which featured unique green tiles, and a large closet for his suits. It was a functional space for a man who balanced his life between Pennsylvania steel and Florida sunshine.
The docent pointed out a clever detail: the home lacked bulky, old-fashioned radiators. Mr. Buck disliked their look, so discreet registers in the floors and walls delivered heat instead. This focus on aesthetic harmony was evident throughout.
The main hallway continued to three guest bedrooms, each with twin beds and its own luxurious en-suite bathroom. The holiday decor here was charming, with wreaths on the bedposts. We marveled at the advanced features: the full bathrooms had central “rainfall” shower heads, call buttons on the walls for summoning staff, and louvered doors for optimal Florida ventilation. At the end of the hallway, a brilliant full-length mirror allowed guests a final, head-to-toe inspection of their attire before descending to join the festivities below.
The Hostess’s Room: Lucy Buck Fox’s Suite
A small hallway at the back connected to the staff wing. The docent told us that nine staff members lived there, including the butler, John Kneier, plus possibly the cook and maids, and they lived in rooms above the garages. This separate wing ensured the family’s privacy while keeping essential help close at hand—a reminder of the estate’s scale and the invisible machinery that made its elegant life possible.
Descending back toward the main level, we passed one final, special bedroom: Lucy’s Room. This large, sun-filled chamber belonged to Charles Buck’s daughter, Lucy Buck Fox. With its beautiful vaulted ceiling beams, it overlooked the gardens. After her mother’s passing, Lucy often stepped into the role of hostess at El Retiro. Her private ensuite bathroom was strikingly cool, with distinctive elderberry-colored tiles that set it apart from all others in the house—a subtle mark of her unique position in the home.
A Serene Finale: The Morning Room
The tour finished with a descent to the Morning Room. Bathed in perfect, gentle light, it was easy to see why this was a beloved family space for morning coffee and casual time. Our docent shared that it was here Lucy would often sit with her own children, enjoying the casual atmosphere. From this serene room, we exited directly into the small, fragrant Mediterranean garden we had seen from the Loggia—the circle now complete.
Why This Holiday Tour Is Unforgettable?
The El Retiro Tour at Bok Tower Gardens at Christmas is special because it transcends a standard historical walkthrough. The decorations aren’t flashy or modern; they are elegant, nostalgic, and carefully curated to complement the home’s original character. You’re not just learning about the past; you’re feeling the spirit of a bygone era’s holiday season.
Practical Tips for Your Holiday Visit to El Retiro
- Book in Advance: The El Retiro estate tour requires a separate ticket from general garden admission, and time slots can fill quickly during the festive season.
- Combine Your Visit: Allow plenty of time to also see the main gardens, which have their own holiday charm with poinsettia displays and special carillon concerts.
- Listen to the docents; their stories about the home’s history, the Buck family, and the specific holiday traditions they’ve recreated add immense depth to what you’re seeing.
Is the El Retiro Christmas Tour Worth It?
Without a doubt, yes. If you appreciate history, architecture, and the subtle, elegant magic of an old-fashioned Christmas, this experience is a treasure. It transforms the El Retiro historic home from a museum into a living, breathing celebration. It’s the perfect counterpart to the grandeur of the Singing Tower—a quiet, intimate, and deeply beautiful chapter in the story of Bok Tower Gardens.
Final Thoughts: El Retiro Tour at Bok Tower Gardens
We ended our tour back on the terrace, the citrus scent from the orchard mingling with the pine. The holiday magic of El Retiro doesn’t feel manufactured; it feels respectfully conjured, a gentle invitation to pause and appreciate beauty, history, and the timeless peace of the season. It is without question the soul of Bok Tower Gardens at Christmastime.
Have you taken the El Retiro tour, or is it on your Florida bucket list? I’d love to hear about your experience or answer any questions in the comments below!
