There is a lesser-known memorial close to Mount Rushmore. This memorial commemorates Crazy Horse (Tasunke Witko), a legendary Oglala Lakota warrior who was a true hero. When completed, it will be the world’s largest mountain carving. The man responsible for this creation was Polish-American sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski. Commissioned by Oglala Lakota, elder Chief Standing Bear, to create the memorial. The lack of any memorial to Native Americans troubled Ziolkowski.
Unlike other monuments and memorials, this one is still a work in progress. Upon completion, this memorial to the Lakota leader will be the largest mountain carving in the Black Hills of South Dakota. It will depict the Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing into the distance. Crazy Horse and Korczak both lived to leave this world a better place for future generations. Many lives are still being touched by their legacy today.
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Where is the Crazy Horse Memorial®
Crazy Horse Memorial is located 17 miles southwest of Mount Rushmore National Memorial along US Highway 16/385 (the Crazy Horse Memorial Highway) at 12151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, SD 57730. There is a lot to see here, so give yourself 3-4 hours. Visitors to the memorial can also see Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, Needles or Iron Mountain Scenic Byways, or Jewel Cave National Monument on the same day.
Note: You can see the Crazy Horse Memorial from the highway and save $35 per car.
The memorial is open year-round. Admission in the summer months is $35.00/vehicle for 3 or more people. Off season is $30.00/vehicle 3 or more people. There is ample free parking. The memorial is open daily from 8 am – 6:00 pm. Free Admission for Native Americans, active military personnel, Boy and Girl Scouts in uniform and local county residents. Crazy Horse Memorial’s admission includes access to three museums, an orientation film, and the opportunity to view the sculpture from the veranda and through the wall of windows. For an additional $125 per person donation, you could take a van to the arm of the mountain to get an ultra-close view of the face.
Note: Visiting hours vary by season and by month. Be sure to check the website or facebook for updated information.
Who was Crazy Horse & Why is he Noteworthy?
Crazy Horse was a fearless Lakota Sioux war leader from South Dakota who fought in the Black Hills War of the late 1800s against the United States government in order to defend the land and heritage of his people.
Oglala Lakota elders in early 1939 envisioned a stunning tribute to Crazy Horse-A Sacred Hero. He was born in 1840, the son of a medicine man. His commitment to maintaining the traditional lifestyle of the Oglala Lakota makes him an honorable warrior. Most remembered for his defeat of Custer’s Seventh U.S. Cavalry battalion at the Battle of Little Bighorn-Custer’s Last Stand. The U.S. Military killed the legendary fighter during a staged truce negotiation in 1877 at Fort Robinson, Nebraska. He was 34 years old.
Ziolkowski’s Obsession with Creating the Memorial
Known as the “Storyteller in Stone,” Korczak Ziolkowski began design work on Crazy Horse Memorial in 1948 after acquiring the land at Thunderhead mountain. Since there are no known images of Crazy Horse, as he believed it would steal his soul. Instead, Ziolkowski used descriptions from survivors of the Little Bighorn (Greasy Grass) to create his Crazy Horse Memorial initial drawings. From the very beginning of the carving, he often used only his hand tools to complete work on the 563-foot tall granite mountain face. He used theodolite survey equipment to do most of the measuring.
In order to gain access to the mountain, a 741-step wooden staircase was constructed. It was during this construction that he met his 2nd wife, Ruth. They married in 1950, with the understanding that the memorial would always be foremost in Ziolkowski’s life. Ruth handled the day-to-day operations while raising their 10 children. For the next 35 years, until his death in 1984, he became fixated on completing the memorial. He never took a salary. The family survived by working a small farm on the property. Ruth died in 2014.
Today the work continues through the foundation and his dedicated family. Crazy Horse Memorial® became a nonprofit in 1948 and remains one today with a mission to protect and preserve the culture, tradition, and living heritage of the North American Indians. No federal funds have ever been used. It is a privately paid endeavor, solely funded by donations and admissions. Twice the U.S. government has offered funding in the range of 10 million dollars. Only to be rejected.
Rustic Bus Ride to the Base of the Mountain
Once in the park, we paid $4 extra to take the “Bus to Base” tour. It is definitely worth the price. The 30-minute tour starts just outside the Welcome center and will give you a better view of the ongoing carving process. The tour guides provide a running narrative of the history behind the monument.
From the base of the memorial, you can see that the scale of the project is enormous. The completed face of Crazy Horse measure 17 feet wide, while his head is 87 feet high. They dedicated the face of Crazy Horse in 1998. Upon completion, the memorial will have an overall height of 563 feet and a length of 641 feet. To put that in perspective, the Mount Rushmore heads are 60 feet in height.
Remember: Bring binoculars or a camera with a telephoto lens
I can’t imagine that the initial 1948 blast used only a single jack to create the blasting holes. Today the six-man mountain crew operating diamond wire cable saws remove rock by blocks roughly 2 ½’ x 2 ½’ x 1 ½ feet deep. They are currently working on the hand of the outstretched arm. Our tour bus guide pointed out that the addition of the Manitou 3255RT has improved the removal of large rock chunks. Additionally, we learned the crew uses rail saws or “finishing” saws to do the finer features of the sculpture. While we watched, the crew disposed of the chunks over the backside of the carving in the debris field below. The crashing rocks reverberated throughout the canyon. Today much of the measuring is done with precision lasers following Korczak’s original detailed plans.
Welcome Center and Grounds Walk
The Welcome Center is the main entrance to the Visitor Complex. a massive wooden structure. Visitors can purchase tickets for tours, inquire at the information desk about special events, or walk the interior exhibit halls. There are two theaters. We watched the 20-minute orientation film, “Dynamite and Dreams” on the history of the Crazy Horse Memorial and the family. Armed with the new background information, we understood more of the significance of the memorial. On the short walk around the grounds you will see bronze sculptures, machinery and the Nature gate.
The Wall of Windows gives good views of the memorial, however it is very difficult to see the detail from this straight-on vantage point.
After finishing our tour of the exhibits and viewing the original lobby and dramatic fireplace made of rocks from the blast zone. We made my way out to the observation deck just as it drizzled with rain. This area is where you can get reasonable pictures of the monument ¾ mile in the distance. Native hoop dancers periodically perform throughout the day.
There is a generously sized gift shop and the Laughing Water is the on-site restaurant. They offer an array of reasonably priced tacos, stews, and burgers. Among the items for sale in the gift shop are souvenirs, apparel, and indigenous crafts. Some items are tacky and touristy.
The Native American Educational & Cultural Center
Aaron White was a featured Living Treasure’s artist on the day we were visiting. He was making river cane flutes in the Native American Educational and Cultural Center. They included all the different cultural programs at Crazy Horse Memorial.
There is a compelling collection of photographs of Native Americans on the lower level, as well as an impressive wall dedicated to the American Bison exhibit. One of the other outstanding collections is the tribal flags that the Native Nations have donated to Crazy Horse Memorial from around the United States.
Stroll The Fascinating Indian Museum Of North America
There is an impressive collection of artifacts, native crafts and artworks from various indigenous tribes displayed in several rooms that are all connected. Many communicate the history and culture of American Indian life. We also explored the Mountain Carving Gallery, and the Ziolkowski Family Life Collection. inside there are miniature models of some aspects of the carving process. Also, a fine collection of the carving tools used by the sculptor.
Passionate Artist’s Sculptor Home & Studio
The sculptor home & workshop is also viewable. When he first arrived at the mountain, Ziolkowski spent the first 7 months living in a tent. The original Ziolkowski Family home, or “Big Room” as the children referred to it, is extraordinary. The family spent over 50 years in this log cabin. The hand-hewn 70-foot home showcases some of the original antiques furnishings, sculptures, and portraits. They built the attached studio in 1962 so Korczak could work through the cold winter months. The most notable artifact was the original Concord Stagecoach that he bought at auction. It has been lovingly restored and displayed in the studio. The studio showcases Korczaks’ preoccupation to continue working.
Crazy Horse Volksmarch-Climb To The Top
The Annual Crazy Horse Spring Volksmarch, an organized hike from the Crazy Horse Visitor Center Parking lot to the Arm of Crazy Horse Mountain. Volksmarching is German meaning, “people’s march.” Every spring/fall, the American Volkssport Association (AVA) sponsors an adventure to the face of the memorial for those who wish to take the 6.2-mile trail. This once0in-a-lifetime hike moves through wooded terrain with many steep inclines and a 500-foot elevation gain along this trail. The final elevation is 6,532 feet and takes up to four hours to complete round trip.
Note: Always bring plenty of water for your hike. At least 2 liters per person is recommended.
What should we bring? Remember, a good pair of sunglasses, sunscreen, towel, ball cap or wide-brimmed hat, and a light loose-fitting long-sleeved shirt for sun protection while on the trail. If you plan to walk the trails, bring bug spray for the biting insects.
Every night from Memorial Day weekend until September 30th, the multimedia laser-light show “Legends in Light” takes place. They dedicated the show to the Native American Spirit. We could hear the narrative storytelling throughout the facility.
When will Crazy Horse Monument be finished?
After over 70 years, the monument is not without controversy. Work on the monument has not progressed as expected. Many criticize the family for taking profits rather than completing the carving of the memorial. The vision is to have this facility be a campus with a university and medical center. Neither of those has come to fruition. Currently, his six children and a few grandchildren run the nonprofit.
Many Oglala Lakota people regard Thunderhead Mountain and the surrounding Black Hills (Paha Sapa) as sacred. Those who oppose the statue say it desecrates the memory of those who sacrificed or were buried near the mountain. Strong viewpoints aside, the memorial will be quite impressive if and when it is completed.
Final Thoughts-A Lasting Message
The Crazy Horse Memorial was a bucket list item on our travels around the Dakota Great 8 in the Black Hills. Ziolkowski and his family have worked with Chief Standing Bear and the Oglala Lakota people to produce the memorial for all Native Americans. It’s awe inspiring to see what the artist and workers have already crafted out of the rock mountain. An amazing amount of progress is being made. Its proximity to the Wind Cave, Jewel Cave and the Badlands makes this a convenient stop to squeeze into your South Dakota itinerary.
Did you ever visit Crazy Horse Memorial? Is there any other monument or memorial that you have seen? Can you share about your experience in the comments? Do you have any recommendations for places to visit?