An Old Town in the Heart of the Kenai Peninsula

Old town Kenai has a proud cultural history. The early Dena’ina, Russian fur traders, and explorers all came to this unique old town in the heart of the Kenai Peninsula for the abundant natural resources. However, they mainly sought the exceptional salmon fishing. The earliest known inhabitants, the Dena’ina Athabascan people, migrated here 3,000 years ago. They setup camp on a high bluff at the mouth of the world-famous Kenai River calling it Yaganen–the good land. It provided them with a spectacular view of Cook Inlet. Later, in 1716, Russian fur traders discovered the riches of this vast wilderness. In 1778, Captain Cook sailed through, thinking that the Cook Inlet would provide a gateway to the Northwest passage. The Russians were only interested in the fur trade constructing the first garrison called a redoubt in 1791. Fort St. Nicholas was later abandoned after the battle of Kenai.

From 1871 to 1957 Kenai grew into a small town, mostly because of homesteaders. They developed canneries to take advantage of the natural resources, namely the salmon. They discovered oil in the area in the late 1950s, giving rise to the oil boom of the 1960s.

Spending a few hours walking this tiny old town, you can wander the historical cabins set on the bluff overlooking the magnificent beach. Travelers can get a map at the Kenai Chamber of Commerce and Visitors’ Center.

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Kenai Visitors and Cultural Center

Just off the Sterling highway on the spur road is the Kenai Visitor’s & Cultural Center.

This is a good place to start your walking tour of Kenai. They have a great information center, free parking and clean restrooms. The staff is friendly & helpful. We learned a lot just by walking through the historical displays. Small gift shop and an excellent collection of Alaska made items for sale. The visitor center is an absolute “must visit.” The Kenai Visitors & Cultural Center will allow you to discover “Old Town Kenai” and best of all, it is free!

Walking Tour of Old Town Kenai

The walking tour of “Old Town Kenai” is like stepping back in time. The free map (Click here) highlights all the significant building locations. You can do a loop which is but 1.2 mile long.

Moosemeat John’s Cabin is the original location of the Chamber of Commerce/Visitor’s Center. Originally owned by John Hedberg, they nicknamed it moosemeat because of the thirteen children he had to feed. He was renown for endlessly hunting moose, whether in season or not. Such a colorful character. The Chamber merged with the Convention and Visitors Bureau and moved into the Kenai Visitor and Cultural Center in 2012.

Erik Hansen Scout Park (913 Mission Ave)

There are magnificent views from the bluff against the spectacular backdrop of the Cook Inlet and the Alaska Range. On a clear day, you can see active volcanoes of Mount Spur, Mount Redoubt and Mount Iliamna. The park has benches and gorgeous flower beds. Bring binoculars for the best wildlife viewing. “The Boy Scout” statue is the centerpiece of the park. They named the park in his memory of eagle scout Peter Erik Hansen (member of Kenai Boy Scout Troop 357). He succumbed to brain cancer at age 32.

The river is famous for the yearly runs of salmon that return to the river each year. Alaska resident dipnetters frequent the riverbanks during the summer. The enormous expanse of beach you can walk for miles unhindered. The tides here are the 2nd highest in the world.

In the spring and fall, bird-watchers flock here-no pun intended during the annual migration to see the different species of waterfowl, sandhill cranes and shorebirds. It is a prime area for eagle-viewing.

Fort Kenay in Old Town Kenai

Alaska officially joined the United States in 1876. Purchased from Russian for 7.2 million. Shortly afterwards, the United States established Fort Kenay in 1869. At one time, it housed 100 soldiers. Today, the fort is a replica built in 1967 as part of the Alaska Centennial. It currently is a private residence.

Holy Assumption of Saint Mary Russian Orthodox Church 

Built in 1894, the Holy Assumption Russian Orthodox Church is a National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Orthodox Church on mainland, an enduring representative of Russian culture where services continue today. The most prominent feature of the church is the blue onion top dome. Inside the church, you can view the Nave and Iconostas.

The Parish House Rectory 

The rectory is the parish home for the current Russian Orthodox priest. They constructed the building in 1886. The wood-shingled building is constructed of logs, laid horizontally. It is believed to be one of the oldest buildings in the Kenai. The house is the famous for the artwork-400-year-old Our Lady of Kazan.

The Chapel of St. Nicholas

Built in 1906, the chapel lies on the site of the original 1849 church overlooking the bluff. It is unusual that they built it with a tall pyramidal roof. In the northwest corner of the Fort St. Nicholas, the original Russian fur trading post, Fort St. Nicholas. It covers the grave of Igumen Nicholai (1810-1867), Makary Ivanov (1835-1878). The chapel is to honor Father Igumen Nicolai and Makary Ivanov. Fr. Nicolai, the first resident priest in Kenai, who brought small pox vaccine to Alaska thus saving the lives of hundreds of Dena’ina.

Enjoy Lunch at Veronica’s Coffee House

Just across the street from the Holy Assumption Russian Orthodox Church is a wonderful lunch destination. Veronica’s café or Coffee House is in a 100-year-old cabin. Built by the Oskolof and Dolchok families in 1918. It is an extremely popular place with the locals. Known for being an espresso spot, Veronica’s is a great place to eat in Old Town Kenai. The soups, wraps and sandwiches are all made with fresh homemade ingredients. The delicious food is over the top. We enjoyed quiche and a hot cocoa warm up. This little café is a true Kenai gem.

Historic Cabin Park in Old Town

The Kenai Historical Society operates and maintains this small park in “Old Town.” Free to public it is on Main Street next to the Kenai Fine Arts Center, it has a treasure trove artifacts in the buildings detailing the historical past and Alaska’s cultural heritage. They have docent guiding tours at the Kenai Historic Cabin Park, who will share stories and details about the families that lived in the buildings. Also on the grounds is a 75 mm Howitzer cannon from World War I donated by the Wildwood Military base.

Mike Dolchok built the Dolchok/Juliussen Cabin in 1922. It remained in the family until the late 1940s. Julius Juliussen moved the homestead from its original location on Overland street to Riverview street. The other cabins showcased in the park are the Sanders’ cabin built by Victor Sanders in 1921. Jim and Peggy Arness purchased the Arness Cabin built in 1925 by Emil Berg in 1948. The Arness family used the part of the home for the first kindergarten in Kenai. They originally built the Miller cabin in Kasilof around 1910. Moved to its current location, George Miller used the home in the 1940s. He was the first Kenaitze Chief to own a cabin in Kenai.

Explore Kenai Beach

You can access the beach from South Spruce Street off the Kenai Spur Highway. The short trail down to the beach gives endless views of the Cook Inlet. Here you can walk towards the mouth of the world famous Kenai River to watch anglers catching salmon or rainbows. To explore further, turn north and walk this timeless beach in search of driftwood or shells. The dunes help to protect the sensitive shoreline and provide habitat for many shorebirds. We found the water was too cold to wade, but instead watched a few eagles fighting over scraps that had washed ashore. The best advice is to wait for the sunset, it is magnificent at this location.

Final Thoughts

Kenai Fjords National Park and Denali National Park are the most popular destinations for tourists. If you are in the area, I would suggest taking a detour to Kenai. I feel this old town in the heart of the Kenai Peninsula should be included on everyone’s Alaskan itinerary. Spend an afternoon taking the walking tour and exploring the beach if you want to learn more about the history of this authentic Alaskan venue.

Have you visited the Kenai peninsula? Had a chance to see Old Town? We would love for you to share your experience in the comments below.