Skagway still preserves much of its frontier spirit. This town is the vibrant heart of the Klondike region. Wandering along the wooden boardwalk sidewalks, we discovered the history of this quaint little town. It’s a scene that seems straight out of a postcard. There are endless opportunities to explore the past in Skagway while gaining a deeper appreciation of this iconic destination.

A railroad track running alongside a river with mountains in the background in Skagway. Taiya River views from the Whites Pass railway
Taiya River views from the Whites Pass & Yukon railway

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Morning Adventures: White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad

This morning our ship Nieuw Amsterdam, quietly docked while we were sleeping. This morning, my companion was not feeling well. Despite the unexpected change of plans, I am excited to embark on this solo journey to discover the wonders that Skagway offers. Once I’ve grabbed a quick breakfast, I check on my husband before heading to the gangway. Today, since there has been a recent landslide, the ship must use tender boats to transport passengers to the small boat harbor. Moving through the crystal clear waters hemmed in by snow-covered mountains, I am excited about my next adventure.

Riding the Rails-White Pass & Yukon Summit Excursion

Riding the Rails of the Historic White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad

When I was 9, I remember reading “Call of the Wild.” It captured my imagination. I believed that a ride on the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad could somehow make the tales of the Klondike Gold Rush come to life.

Meeting the train dockside, I find my seat in the last train car. I’ve been told the best views are on the left side going up to the summit. I take the last seat at the back of the train car. This gives me a good view and easy access to the outside viewing platform. This train climbs to summit an elevation of 2888 feet. At the top of White Pass, where just across the Canadian border, the train makes a loop before heading back to Skagway.

a scenic view of the Glacier Station Tunnel on the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway. A train characterized by vintage-style carriages, painted in dark colors with a red roof, crosses a curved wooden trestle bridge. The train is exiting a tunnel carved into a sheer rock face on the left. The rocky cliffs surrounding the tunnel are steep, with visible vertical striations. The foreground and edges feature dense vegetation, including evergreen trees and scattered shrubs. The background consists of more rugged cliffs and forested areas, providing a natural backdrop to the railway scene.
Glacier Station Tunnel White Pass & Yukon Route Railway

I have always loved how a train sways gently back and forth. It almost puts you to sleep. Today it is quite comforting. As the train chugs along, it builds momentum as it climbs higher into the rugged mountain pass. I stood at the railing, treated to sweeping vistas of snow-capped peaks. One thing I noticed was that you would hear the cascading waterfalls well before the train actually passed them. The rhythmic chugging and whistle blasts only seem to add to my sense of adventure I feel as we traverse sturdy trestles and hidden tunnels. Passing Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point, Dead Horse Gulch and the Klondike Trail of ‘98, just to name a few.

'The horses died like mosquitoes in the first frost and from Skagway to Bennett they rotted in heaps ... men shot them, worked them to death and when they were gone, went back to the beach and bought more. ... Their hearts turned to stone--those which did not break--and they became beasts, the men on the Dead Horse Trail.” Jack London

A Treacherous Journey to Riches

This train follows the same route as the 1898 Klondike stampeders. The narration provided by our guide perfectly blends the past and the present. Her words paint a vivid picture, delving into a bygone era. Uncovering the stories of the Klondike gold rush, she filled each tale with fascinating anecdotes and historical facts. You have t admire the indomitable spirit of those who braved the harsh Alaskan wilderness. The challenges they faced mirrors the intriguing storytelling I found in the pages of my Jack London novel.

Rocky Point from the White Pass & Yukon Railroad-Scenic landscape with green trees, a river, and snow-capped mountains in the background.
Rocky Point from the White Pass & Yukon Railroad

Through her narratives, we learned the railway was constructed between 1898 and 1900. It provided transportation for miners seeking their fortunes in the Yukon Territory. Another tidbit of how Dead Horse Gulch got its name. The Chilkoot Trail and the White Pass Trail were the main routes to the Yukon Goldfields. Many of the Klondike prospectors chose the White Pass Trail, using horses to transport an enormous amount of equipment. Many of the pack animals were overburdened and mistreated. It is said that the treacherous conditions were responsible for the deaths of 3,000 horses.

Dead Horse Gulch: an old, partially collapsed wooden trestle bridge set against a mountainous backdrop. Snow patches are scattered across the landscape, with evergreen trees dotting the scene. The bridge is constructed from wooden beams and iron, with part of it visibly missing and collapsed. The surrounding mountains have rocky surfaces with sparse vegetation, indicating a rugged, cold environment. The sky above is overcast, adding to the desolate atmosphere of the location.
Old Trestle at Dead Horse Gulch

y Klondike Gold Rush History: Reaching the Summit White Pass

After a few hours, the train reached the summit of White Pass; the air growing quite crisp. Here, the landscape undergoes a dramatic transformation.During the early spring, the top of Whites Pass still held the icy grip of winter, surprising me. The frozen lakes with their icy blue pools made it feel like stepping into a frozen fairy tale. Much of the top is tundra, devoid of the lush forest we saw closer to Skagway.

White Pass Summit with Railway and icy winter lake-Snowy landscape with mountains and a train at Whites Pass Summit in Skagway.
White Pass Summit

I have to say, hopping aboard the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad was an absolute blast! It easily ranks as one of the most unforgettable adventures I’ve had during my visits to Alaska. The journey took me on a trip to a time of gold fever when there was a spirit of exploration. A must do for anyone visiting Skagway.

White Pass Summit Excursion-A mountain stream with small waterfalls surrounded by snow, rocks, and evergreen trees.
Cascading Waterfalls-Skagway

Here are a few more ideas for organizing your trip:

  • I recommend securing your tickets early, as the busiest times are fast-selling.
  • Seek out a spot on the left side of the train, near the rail exit for a better outside view.
  • Wear clothing in multiple layers, as mountain weather is often unpredictable.
  • Make sure your phone or camera is charged and ready to snap the wide-angle shots. This excursion includes a complimentary bottled water.
A women in front of the Klondike Gold Rush Historical Site Signe in Skagway

Afternoon Delights: The Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park

White Pass & Yukon Broadway Depot-Visitor Center-Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park
White Pass & Yukon Broadway Depot-Visitor Center-Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park

The heavily burdened gold rush stampeder put on the most captivating display. It seems that to prevent a food shortage, the Canadian government mandated that everyone must carry a sufficient amount of supplies. These supplies encompassed food, attire, and other essential things needed to support themselves and their families. Travelers to the Yukon goldfields were not allowed to proceed if they did not have these necessary supplies.

Stampeder Statue Skagway-Bronze sculpture of a gold miner sitting on a bench with a dog beside him.
Stampeder Statue Skagway

Skagway Klondike Gold Rush history

There are a combination of other museums and buildings that comprise the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, managed by the National Park Service.

The centerpiece of the saloon is its long wooden bar counter, made from dark polished wood. The counter is wide enough to accommodate multiple patrons, providing ample space for drinks and conversation.

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Mascot Saloon Museum (1898)

Easy to find at 3rd and Broadway is open daily from 9am till 5pm. The inside recreates the ambiance of a typical gold rush-era saloon. It served as a bar, gambling hall, and social hub for miners, prospectors, and other travelers.

This well-preserved building was once owned by Jeff Smith, also known as "Soapy" Smith, a notorious con artist and crime boss during the Gold Rush era.

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Jeff Smith’s Parlor Museum (1897)

The museum is on 2nd between Broadway and State Street. They are open on weekends from 9am to 5pm. During the week, the NPS offers 30 minute ranger-guided tours. It highlights the activities of Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith, an infamous con artist and gangster. Arriving in 1897, he quickly took control of the town’s criminal underworld. His gang ran various cons. He tried to maintain a facade of respectability through involvement in local civic activities and charity work.

The Pantheon Saloon is now the Junior Ranger activity center, with lots of enjoyable tasks for aspiring junior rangers.

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Pantheon Saloon (1897)

Found at the corner of Broadway and 4th, is the Junior Ranger Activity Center. It is open weekdays from 10am to 3pm. Park Ranger can assist kids in completing the activity book to earn their Junior Ranger Badge.

Entrance to the Trail Center at Klondike Gold Rush International Historical Park.

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Trail Center-Boss Bakery (1897)

In the center of town on Broadway, it has exhibits about the Chilkoot Trail. It was the primary route to the Klondike. Watch the film on the trail to Lake Bennett makes you feel you are actually hiking it. The rangers at the information center are extremely helpful in giving preparation tips for any hikers venturing onto the trail.

Front facade of the Arctic Brotherhood Hall in Skagway, featuring a log-covered exterior with large "A" and "B" letters, multiple windows, "CAMP SKAGWAY NO 1" sign, and "1899" above the entrance.
Front Facade of the Arctic Brotherhood Hall Skagway Credit K. Ogen

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Arctic Brotherhood Hall (1900)

The unique architecture of this building is truly impressive. Built in 1899, it served as the community meeting place for the Arctic Brotherhood, a fraternal organization established in 1899. What is most interesting is the thousands of pieces of driftwood that decorate the outside facade. It too is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. During the Gold Rush era, it was referred to as Camp Skagway No. 1.

Martin Itjen House Bookstore-a brightly painted light blue wooden building with white trim, situated on a sunny day. The building features horizontal siding and a pitched roof. Prominent black text is visible on the facade of the building, set against the blue background. There is a white-framed window on the left side of the structure. The sky is clear and blue with a few white clouds, and a portion of a boardwalk is visible to the right. Another building is partially visible, painted a similar light blue with "Monarch Jewels" in red on its facade.
Martin Itjen House Bookstore-Skagway

Exploring historic Skagway Alaska: Martin Itjen House Bookstore (1901)

Located on Broadway between 1st and 2nd Avenue, this building was constructed by David J. Rich in 1901. Rich and his wife resided in the small cottage until 1920. The first business owners in Skagway, Itjen and his wife Lucy, were quick to see the potential in tourism. They ran various businesses such as a streetcar, boarding houses, and confectioneries until their passing in the 1940s. The wooden cottage has been moved several times before being acquired by the NPS. After being renovated in 1991, it now serves as the NPS bookstore.

Built in 1897, the Moore House is a larger and more refined structure compared to the original cabin, showcasing the family's growing prominence and prosperity.
Built in 1897, the Moore House is a larger and more refined structure compared to the original cabin, showcasing the family’s growing prominence and prosperity.

Skagway Historical Attractions: Moore Homestead Museum (1897)

Turning a corner off the boardwalk, I was surprised to find a charming homestead on 5th between Broadway and Spring Street. This was by far my favorite site. Given the abundance of cruise ships docked nearby, the place was deserted. I had it all to myself. You can explore one of the oldest surviving buildings at your own pace by taking a self-guided tour. It is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day. Today the ranger is late and opens the museum just for me to explore.

An interior room of the Moore Cabin in Skagway, characterized by antique and historical decor. The walls are adorned with a collection of framed photographs and artwork, creating a gallery-like display. These frames vary in size and shape, with some incorporating oval designs. The wall is painted a soft brownish-pink tone, complementing the vintage theme. A window with lace curtains allows natural light to softly illuminate the room. Below the photographs, a variety of decorative plates are arranged artistically. The room contains antique furniture, including a sofa with floral upholstery and a small wooden table. A vintage black and white photograph stands prominently on an easel, near a sitting chair draped with dark fabric. The floor is covered in a patterned carpet in shades of brown. A decorative light fixture hangs from the ceiling, adding to the historical charm of the room.
Parlor Display of the Moore Homestead cabin in Skagway

The museum tells the story of Skagway’s founding family, Captain William Moore and his son, Ben Moore. They were among the first non-native residents of the Skagway Valley. Inside are exhibit rooms set up to represent typical living spaces, such as the parlor, kitchen, and bedrooms, providing a window into the domestic life of the period. The old homestead is a symbol of why it’s crucial to protect our past and pay tribute to the people who influenced Skagway’s development.

Close-up views of an Alaskan Brown Bear Paw
Mounted grizzly bear a closeup of its paw

Skagway Museum and Archives (Trail of ’98 Museum)

This is a kind of hidden gem, away from the downtown hustle and bustle. I stubbled upon it by accident. The museum occupies the McCabe College building at 7th Avenue and Spring Street. Originally built in 1899 to educate the miners’ children, the building now serves as the city hall and museum. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Away from the cruise ship crowds, this museum features artifacts, photographs, and displays that depict life in Skagway from the early days as a Tlingit trading post to its more tumultuous origins as a gold rush town. The oral histories gave insights into the daily lives of residents were fascinating.

 the SS. Princess Sophia, a large steamship, docked at Alert Bay around 1912. The steamship is predominantly white with a dark hull, featuring multiple decks and a prominent black smokestack at its center. The ship's masts are visible, extending vertically from the upper decks. In the background, densely forested hills frame the scene, and a few small wooden buildings are situated near the docking area on the right side of the image. The water in the foreground appears slightly choppy, suggesting movement.
Credit: Author Unknown, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

I learned about the shipwreck of the SS Princess Sophia’s and its eventful journey. This was a story I had never heard before. I guess on October 23, 1918; the ship set sail from Skagway with 350 people on board. As night fell, a heavy snowstorm made it difficult to see as she steamed towards Juneau. Unfortunately, the ship collided with Vanderbilt Reef. Tragically, over a two-day period, she broke apart. Rescuers could not reach the vessel for a rescue. All was 350 souls were lost to the sea. The sole survivor, a dog named Tommy. There is also a commemorative plaque in Centennial Park detailing the disaster. This was a nice stop and I suggest if you have the time go, admission is just $2.

Reid Falls in Skagway-scenic view of a waterfall flowing down a rocky cliffside surrounded by lush green foliage. The waterfall cascades over dark, jagged rocks and is enveloped by dense tree coverage, exhibiting a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. The water appears vibrant white against the contrasting dark rocks. The sky is obscured by the thick canopy of trees, creating a sense of seclusion and tranquility.
Reid Falls Trail Gold Miner Cemetary Skagway

Things to do in historic Skagway: Visit the Gold Rush Cemetery

The Gold Rush cemetery is a fascinating place I was eager to visit. Its historical significance for me made this a must-see attraction. Located just off a gravel road on the outskirts of town, a shuttle service is available from town for a $5 fee each way. The cemetery has gained unexpected popularity, which I found surprising. I guess it is now on the radar of most of the cruise excursion tours.

Lower Reid Falls Trail Bridge over the creek- a small wooden footbridge in a forest setting. The bridge is constructed of wooden planks with simple railings on either side and spans a narrow gravel path. The surrounding area is lush with dense green foliage, including various trees and shrubs. Sunlight filters through the leaves, creating dappled shadows on the ground and bridge. The scene conveys a tranquil and natural atmosphere typical of a woodland environment.

A Must Do Visit in Skagway: Lower Reid Falls

The shuttle has no one else on it for both of my trips. The driver, a local, chatted about the history of the town, dropping me at the cemetery just as the tour buses are leaving. I made the quick 10-15 minute hike through the forest to find the waterfalls. Lower Reid Fall you often have to contend with lots of people vying for that perfect selfie. I only have a group of elementary kids to cope with today. They are all polite letting me take my pics first. I then head back down the trail to the cemetery to find the infamous gravestones of some of the more colorful characters.

Weathered gray grave marker in a wooded area with rustic wooden fencing.

Transcribed Text:

Jefferson R. Smith
Died July 8, 1898
Aged 38 Years
Skagway Gold Rush Cemetery: grave of Soapy Smith

The Story of Soapy Smith: An Infamous Klondike History

One of the most infamous figures buried here, Soapy Smith, was a gangster who ran a criminal empire in Skagway. Known for his swindles Soapy Smith’s reign in Skagway ended violently. On July 8, 1898, he was involved in a shootout with lawman Frank H. Reid. He and other town members had formed a vigilante committee to rid the town of Smith’s influence. The confrontation, known as the Shootout on Juneau Wharf, resulted in Smith’s death and Reid’s mortal wounding.

Frank Reid's elaborate headstone: A weathered stone monument in a forested cemetery with surrounding tombstones and trees.
Frank H. Reid’s elaborate headstone is a Skagway local hero

Soapy Smith is just one of the well-known figures buried here. Considered a notorious criminal, he was renown for his deceptive methods. Soapy Smith’s reign over Skagway ended tragically with a violent confrontation. On July 8, 1898, he engaged in a gunfight with Frank H. Reid, who, along with other town vigilantes. They had formed a group Committee of 101 to dismantle Smith’s influence. This clash, known as the Shootout on Juneau Wharf, resulted in Smith’s death (shot in the heart) and Reid’s fatal injury (died 12-days later).

Cemetery sign Gold Miners Cemetery Skagway-Gold Rush Cemetery informational sign in Skagway with historical details, a map, and visitor guidelines.

After reading a few more of the headstones’ history, I head back to the shuttle station. Talking with the shuttle driver, he states how this cemetery serves as a reminder of the hardships faced by those who came to Skagway seeking fortune, many of whom succumbed to disease, accidents, and violence.

Yakutania Point Trail-Lynn Canal-a scenic landscape of a mountain range partially veiled by clouds. The mountains, covered in patches of greenery, rise prominently from a tranquil body of water that reflects their silhouette. The peaks are dusted with snow, providing a stark contrast against the lush green vegetation below. The sky above is partly cloudy, with shades of blue peeking through the clouds, creating a serene and picturesque atmosphere.
Yakutania Point Trail-Lynn Canal

Things to do in historic Skagway: Yakutania Point Trail

After the cemetery, I needed some quiet time. I couldn’t decide whether to hike to Upper or Lower Dewey Lake(3-miles) or Yakutania Point. Finally, chose to hike the Yakutania Point Trail. It is a short 1.4-mile out-and-back trail. First, I crossed the footbridge over the Skagway river. Turning left, I followed a very well-maintained trail. During the walk, it meandered past rock outcroppings and Sitka spruce forests. At the end, I did have to scramble over the rocks, but it was worth it for the great panoramic views of the Lynn Canal, the cruise ships, and the port.

Built in 1897, the original Red Onion Saloon operated as one of the finest bordellos in Skagway
Built in 1897, the original Red Onion Saloon operated as one of the finest bordellos in Skagway

The Red Onion Saloon: Uncovering the Stories of the Past

This historic saloon and brothel museum has been in operation since 1898. In 1902, the Red Onion Saloon was raided by the US Marshal’s Service, and the brothels were closed down. Today, it is a fixture in Skagway drawing tourists by the thousands every year. If you watched the HBO series “Deadwood” you would recognize it. Other films and television shows have also featured the building.

 the exterior of the Red Onion Saloon, a historic building with a rustic appearance. The two-story structure features a light gray façade with dark trim. Large, red letters spell "RED ONION SALOON" across the upper section of the frontage. Below, there are two large windows and a door, with a sign advertising "PIZZA & NACHOS" visible through a window. A sign on the right indicates the presence of tours available for $10. Above, a small decorative emblem appears between two second-story windows. The street next to the saloon shows a car and a clear, sunny sky with some clouds and distant mountain scenery.

Jan Wrentmore purchased the Red Onion Saloon and restored it to its former glory in 1978. The saloon is now open for visitors to buy a drink from the bar and order food. Still today the working girls still slip garters on to unsuspecting gentleman’s arms. The upstairs is a museum dedicated to the working women of Skagway. On daily tours, you can learn about the history of the brothels that once operated here.

Lilac flowers blooming with green leaves, against a mountainous backdrop at Centennial Park Skagway.
Lilac Spring Blooms in Centennial Park Skagway

Evening Farewell: Centennial Park Trek

Before returning to the ship, I spent time looking in the gift shops before wandering to the train depot. The train depot features a rotary snowplow used to clear the winter snows from the tracks. This rotary plow was similar to the one we had previously seen in Anchorage. If you are lucky, you can get a good photo op of the White Pass & Yukon Railway as it passes.

The rotary snow plow and original train engine White Pass Railroad
The rotary snow plow and original train engine White Pass Railroad

Inside the park is the centennial statue. Sculpted by Chuck Buchanan, it depicts a Tlingit packer leading a gold rush prospector up the trail of White Pass. Information placards paint an interesting picture. Apparently, the Tlingit never established a permanent settlement here, opting instead to use the area for hunting and fishing. They called this place shԍagéi (“Shuh-gway”), which roughly translates to “windy place” because of the constant wind coming down from the pass over the Lynn Canal. Additionally, there are benches and flower gardens here that enhance the square.

Centenial Statue Skagway-A bronze statue of two historical figures on a rock base with a plaque, set against a natural landscape and blue sky.
Centennial Statue Skagway

Pullen StreamWalk: A Historic Trail Along Skagway’s Waterfront

As the day begins to wind down, I make my way back to the small boat harbor, taking a detour along the Streamwalk. This park features raised boardwalks with observation platforms that allow you to view the salmon without disturbing them. Strolling along the Pullen Creek (sometimes called Dewey Creek) is an educational experience, with informational placards detailing the life cycle of salmon and their importance to the ecosystem. It is too early in the season so I see no salmon today. It is a quite shady spot that makes a loop (0.3 miles). Heading back, my legs are getting weary. Time to say goodbye to Skagway. I pass an RV park that would be ideal if we had our tent trailer. Maybe another adventure in the future.

Stream walk along the Pullen Creek in Skagway-A clear stream flows through a wooded area with tall trees and lush greenery.
Streamwalk along the Pullen Creek in Skagway

Final Thoughts: Exploring the Past in Skagway the Heart of the Klondike

For us, Skagway was a blend of history, nature, and rugged beauty. This small Klondike town offers cruise ship visitors a unique and unforgettable experience. Cruise ship crowds often hamper much of the shopping experience, but there is a lot more to Skagway other than shopping. No matter what you decide to do in port, we are sure it will be memorable.

Have you ever been to Skagway? If so, what was the most exciting thing you did there? Share your experience in our comments!