If you visit Custer State Park in the Black hills and don’t take a ride on the Needles Highway, you are definitely missing out. I still think it was one of the most beautiful and scenic road we have ever traveled. The byway passes through thick ponderosa pine, spruce forests and lush green, meadows with scattered birch and aspen trees meandering amongst tall granite peaks. Driving the Needles is better when you hike the majestic granite pinnacles. The phenomenal Black Hills landscape needs to be experienced. There is no better way than to traverse the trails. The road’s name comes from these needle-like granite formations that raise against the horizon all along the byway.
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Needle’s Highway Overview
We drove the Needles Highway (Hwy 87) from Highway 385 to US Highway 16-A. Starting at US Highway 385, just a few miles from the Crazy Horse Memorial. It is not long before the 14-mile highway twists and turns, rising to an elevation of 6339 feet. The speed limit is 20 mph. The drive takes about 2-3 hours depending on the number of stops. Because of the scenic views and constant stops for photos, this drive is not recommended if you only have a short amount of time.
There are plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the stunning scenery. While moving along, we spotted several animals along the roadside without warning. Marmots, mule deer and rabbits, to name just a few.
Where is the Needles Highway? How do we get there?
From Keystone, SD take 244 west towards Mt. Rushmore to the junction of US-16 W/US-385, turn left onto US Hwy. 16A south. Immediately take the next left onto Hwy 87 South towards Sylvan Lake.
From Hill City, SD, take US-16 W/US-385 South 4-miles to the intersection of Hwy 87 South towards Sylvan Lake.
From Custer, South Dakota, take US-16 8 miles heading east to SD-87. Turn left to access the Needles Hwy.
It is important to note that the road is closed during the winter months.
Note: A Custer State Park Pass costs $20/vehicle or $10/motorcycle, valid throughout the park for 7 days. An annual pass costs $30.
Navigating the Tunnels of the Needles Highway
Carved through the granite pinnacles are three one-lane tunnels. In order from North to South is Hood tunnel the widest (10′ 6″ wide by 9’10″ high), then Needle eye tunnel (8′ 9″ wide by 9’8″ high), then Iron Creek tunnel (8′ 9″ wide by 10’10” high). Operating a moving vehicle through the tunnels can be daunting, not knowing what is on the other side. It was cool watching cars go through kids reaching out the windows to touch the granite walls. If you have a larger vehicle, be sure to check at the visitor centers before driving through the tunnels that you meet the size specifications to fit through.
First Pass-through is the Hood Tunnel
Just to the west of Sylvan Lake is the first tunnel. Hood tunnel isn’t very long. There is a pullout on both sides to wait for oncoming traffic to clear. I can only imagine what it was like during the early days of construction blasting these granite outcroppings.
Threading Through The Needle Eye Tunnel
The second and most magnificent is the Needle Eye Tunnel, 2-miles from south of Sylvan Lake. The longest tunnel, there are only a few parking spots directly in front of the tunnel. Luckily, we snagged a spot near the front. Named for the signature landmark Needles Eye found beside the tunnel.
This area contains some of the country’s oldest rocks, dating back 2 million years. The needle’s eye is a unique granite formation formed by wind and erosion. A rather impressive structure. Climbers come here from all over just to conquer these peaks. While waiting for the tunnel traffic to clear, we climbed around the spires, getting great views of the Black Hills. Passing through the tunnel, we continued on to the Cathedral Spires Trailhead.
Iron Creek Tunnel
The Iron Creek tunnel is the last tunnel we passed through. Named for the creek that follows closely to the Needles Highway. We pulled over just before the tunnel to watch a marmot on the side of the road. We had seen marmots in Yellowstone while in the Lamar Valley. I find them endearing. Passing through the tunnel, we continued toward Center Lake. The tunnels are a remarkable feat of engineering.
Best Hikes We did in Custer State Park
While moving along the Needles Highway in South Dakota, you can find hikes of every level in Custer State Park. In the limited time we had on this trip, we were able to complete quite a few of the popular trails. Weather in the late afternoons turned stormy on a few days with rain, hail, and lightning. Keep your eyes to the sky and never underestimate how quickly the weather can turn.
Sylvan Lake Shore Trail (#1)
The lodge at Sylvan Lake has restrooms, restaurant, store, and kayak rentals. We thought that the kayak-canoe rentals were a little pricy. Besides being a beautiful spot, the lake was also the setting for scenes from the movie “National Treasure 2: Book of Secrets.”
Early in the morning or just before sunset is prime time to walk the short 1-mile flat loop trail around Sylvan Lake. The lake is a popular spot for fishing and hiking. It is often crowded, but not today. Many trails begin at Sylvan Lake. The parking lot was full, but our trails did not seem crowded. We walked clockwise, making for the dam before turning left to complete the loop before making for Elk Peak. If you bear left before the dam, the trail cuts through a rock tunnel. At certain times of the year, the trail below the dam can be wet. A small bridge crosses the dam outflow. Climbing the rock outcroppings, you get panoramic views of Sylvan lake.
Important: Keep yourself hydrated and energized by bringing plenty of water and snacks.
Hike Elk Peak- the Highest Peak (#9)
Originally called Harney Peak, they renamed it in 2016 after the renown medicine man and spiritual leader of the Oglala Sioux tribe, Black Elk. Interesting fact, it’s also the highest elevation between the Rocky Mountains in the western United States and the Pyrenees Mountains in France. The trail requires good hiking boots and trek poles.
If you have only a short time in the Black Hills, this hike is a must do! The moderately difficult 3.5 mile trail to the mountaintop begins at Sylvan Lake. The most accessible and easiest to follow is the #9 trail (Take #4 back to create a loop). The clearly marked trail moves through lush green meadows dotted with spring wildflowers before climbing through Ponderosa pine forests with amazing rock outcroppings gradually rising into the Black Elk Wilderness Area. There are plenty of places to stop and take a breather. We stopped to catch our breath at the kiosk, completing our permit before moving on. At two different places along the trail are benches, a quiet reprieve in the wilderness. Bring plenty of water. Do not underestimate how much you will drink.
Note: It is essential that you complete the wilderness self-registration permit at the wooden kiosk. Keep a copy with you; failure to have the permit could cause a hefty fine.
Climb to the Top of the Fire Lookout Tower
The hardest push that made us quite winded was climbing the many metal stairs to the stone fire lookout tower. Sitting at the highest point at 7242 feet, the Civilian Conservation Corps constructed the abandoned tower in 1938. The tower’s enclosed observation deck gave us welcome relief from the hot sun. Inside, the 360-degree panoramic views of the Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska, and North Dakota were breathtaking. It is impossible to describe the rewarding sense of accomplishment we felt just getting to the top.
The rocks surrounding the peak are a great place to have a quick picnic lunch. On the backside out of the wind, we found an outcropping that gave us the feeling of solitude. Eating lunch, we reflected on the many prayer flags wrapped around the few trees that dot the mountaintop. The Lakota consider much of the area as sacred to the spirits. The prayer flags are homemade gifts left in tribute by those who make the pilgrimage to the mountain (out of respect, we took no photos). Clouds were moving in as we finished our meal.
Completing the Loop #4 Trail
We took a few photos of the fire lookout tower, investigated the pump house and small reservoir before descending back down the mountain. The Black Elk #4 trail traverses through thick Ponderosa Pine forest, creating a loop connecting back to Sylvan lake. Combining both trails is longer (total 7-miles), but you can do both Cathedral Spires (1.2 mile spur) and Little Devils Tower (0.2 mile spur). We chose to only do the Little Devil’s Tower as the clouds continued to build. We did not want to press our luck.
Don’t Skip the Little Devils Tower Trail (#4)
Taking the Black Elk #4 trail, it is a 0.2 mile spur trek to Little Devils Tower. If you start at the trailhead off, the Needles Highway expect the hike to be 3.6-miles out & back. Well-marked, just follow the blue dots (arrows). There is a bit of a rock scramble near the end of the trail. It’s 100% worth the effort for spectacular views of Custer State Park and the surrounding area.
A Hidden Secret Trail
As you return from Black Elk Peak, there is an opportunity to find the Poets’ Table trail via another spur trail. Within the pinnacles of the Black Hills lies a lonely set, a green table, and chairs and a bookcase. Apparently, they were placed there in 1969. Locals are aware of it, but don’t advertise its location. Despite being destroyed in 2018, a local carpenter replaced all the items. This unique trail has no markers and can be difficult to find. I think we were just lucky and stumbled upon the secret hidden trail. The views are spectacular of the Black hills, however, the graffiti on the walls was troubling to me.
Remember when hiking, to practice the 7 Principles of Leave no Trace.
Awe Inspiring Cathedral Spires
The trail to the Cathedral Spires is 2.3 miles out and back from the trailhead parking lot. There is a commemorative plaque showing it is a registered Natural Landmark. A little challenging as far as elevation, but the end justifies the means. Hiking boots and trek poles are a must on this rocky trail. Not to crowd at midday, we only encountered a few hikers. Steadily climbing in elevation, the trail rises to a plateau surrounded by tall granite spires. Stopping for a snack and a water break, we noticed mountain pine beetles had devastated a large area of the forest, which was a surprise to us. At the top of the trail, there is more slash timber than living Ponderosa Pines. A battle the park has been fighting since the 1990s.
Mountain Goats Ahead!
Near the end of the trail, we spotted a lone mountain goat browsing grasses in the pine slash. They are not goats in the true sense. The highlight for us on this trail. In fact, they are antelopes that are classified as goats. In contrast to true goats, mountain goats have slightly curved horns that are almost smooth. They introduced mountain goats into Custer State Park in 1924. We watched and photographed him from a safe distance before the distant rumble of thunder and darkening skies had us scrambling back to the safety of the car.
Sunday Gulch Trail
The trailhead starts at Sylvan Lake Lodge. This 3-mile loop trail was a favorite for us. Start the trail traveling counter-clockwise to get the tough part completed first. The rocky scramble over the boulders takes patience and a bit of determination. Therefore, the trail is moderately strenuous. Hand rails embedded in the rock boulders offer support. A good trekking stick provides additional stability.
Once you reach the gulch, the needle-like rock formations seem to jut out of the valley floor. There are a few creek crossovers and waterfalls that may get your feet wet/muddy. Spring wildflowers covered the meadow areas. In some areas near the creek, beware of the poison ivy. The shaded trail near the end hugs the needles highway for a mile of so, making it noisy. If I did the trail again, I would skip this part of the trail and do and out & back on the boulders section.
Grace Coolidge Creek Picnic Area & Trail
Just past the Playhouse Road intersection with the Needles highway this is a great place to have lunch. Situated beside the creek, picnic tables and restrooms are available. Along the creek, there is a walkway leading to a small cave or grotto. There is a 3-mile trail that follows Grace Coolidge Creek from the campgrounds upstream meandering toward center lake. The trail crosses over the creek several times via small plank bridges. Not all were stable. The creek has many access points for fishing. Small dams create ponds for trout. Fly-fishing you can catch these stocked trout fairly easily. Wear long pants and watch for poison ivy and ticks (found one tick climbing the car window). Bug spray or clothing containing 0.5% permethrin can repel ticks.
Final Thoughts on the Needles Highway
WOW!!! The Needles highway is just spectacular. A thrilling drive winds its way through narrow tunnels that open to stunning vista! What an incredible experience! If you’re in South Dakota, you must stop here. These are just a few of the great hikes to do when driving this scenic roadway. We highly recommend adding this road trip to your great 8 itinerary. Additionally, think about adding Spearfish Canyon and Iron Mountain scenic byways to your itinerary. Both are a surprising drive as well!
What is your experience with the Needles Highway in the Black Hills? How would you rate it? Do you have a favorite scenic road in the Black Hills?
