An adventure to Katmai National Park Alaska may be at the top of every bear lover’s bucket list, and for good reason. Watching brown bears gather at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park is an unforgettable experience. We were lucky enough to win the lottery and make the journey ourselves.
But here’s the thing: there’s much more to Katmai than its famous bears.
Beyond Brooks Falls, this vast wilderness is shaped by volcanoes, rivers, lakes, and rugged landscapes. It’s home to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, created by one of the largest volcanic eruptions of the 20th century. There are also opportunities for hiking, fishing, wildlife watching, and simply experiencing a part of Alaska that feels wonderfully remote.
Of course, the bears were a huge part of why we wanted to visit. Brooks Falls and its famous bear viewing platform gave us the Bear Bonanza we had dreamed about. But once we arrived, we quickly realized the bears were only one part of the Katmai experience.
From stepping off the float plane to exploring the park’s incredible volcanic landscape, Katmai gave us an adventure far beyond bear watching.
This is our look at the other side of Katmai—and why this incredible Alaska national park deserves more than a quick visit to Brooks Falls.
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Why Visit Brooks Falls For Bear Adventures in Katmai National Park
Visiting Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park is an unforgettable wildlife experience. For nature lovers, photographers, and anyone who has dreamed of seeing brown bears in the wild, it is hard to beat.
Watching these powerful animals fishing in the rushing waters of Brooks River is something we will never forget. But as incredible as the bears are, Brooks Falls is only one part of the Katmai experience.
We dedicated an entire post to our time at Brooks Falls, including how we won the lottery, our float plane adventure, and what it was like seeing the bears up close from the viewing platforms. If bear watching is what brings you to Katmai, be sure to read our Bearapalooza at Beautiful Brooks Falls in Katmai.
For this post, we’re going beyond the bears to explore the volcanic landscapes, wilderness, and other experiences that make Katmai National Park Alaska such a remarkable destination.
Brooks Falls: The Bear Bonanza
Of course, we can’t talk about Katmai National Park Alaska without mentioning Brooks Falls. The famous falls are what put Katmai on the map for many wildlife lovers, and our own visit was an incredible experience.
If seeing brown bears at Brooks Falls is on your Alaska bucket list, we’ve dedicated an entire post to our Bearapalooza at Beautiful Brooks Falls in Katmai, including our experience and everything we encountered along the way.
But there’s a whole lot more to Katmai than bears. That’s what we want to explore here.
Getting to Katmai: A Stop in King Salmon
During our short layover in King Salmon, we took time to walk over to the King Salmon Katmai Visitor Center, located next to the airport. The visitor center is a great introduction to the park, with exhibits, maps, park regulations, and educational resources.
There’s also a small gift shop with some unique items. We were able to get our passport stamps for both Katmai National Park and Aniakchak National Monument before continuing our journey.
While we were there, we met up with our dear friend Damond, who had been our fishing guide on the Kenai River in 2021. We had forgotten to bring our mosquito head nets, so Damond graciously gave us one each. That turned out to be a pretty important gift because we used them several times during our time at Brooks Falls.
This works well here because it’s your story, and it introduces the logistics of getting into this remote part of Alaska without turning the article into another Brooks Falls guide.
More Things to Do in Katmai National Park
The bears may be the biggest draw, but they aren’t the only reason to visit Katmai. Beyond Brooks Falls, the park offers a completely different side of Alaska, from volcanic landscapes and remote rivers to hiking and incredible wildlife.
Here are some of the experiences that make Katmai more than a bear-viewing destination:
Explore the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is one of Katmai’s most remarkable landscapes. Created by the massive 1912 eruption of Novarupta, the valley is filled with layers of volcanic ash and surrounded by rugged mountains.
For us, this is one of the experiences that really shows how different Katmai is from many other national parks. The landscape feels almost otherworldly, and it gives you a chance to see the powerful volcanic forces that helped shape this part of Alaska.
Go Fishing
Fishing is another major attraction in Katmai. The park’s rivers and lakes support abundant populations of salmon and trout, making it a popular destination for anglers.
And with all those fish moving through the waterways, it’s no surprise that fishing also plays an important role in the lives of Katmai’s wildlife.
Explore the Waterways
Katmai’s lakes and rivers offer opportunities for kayaking and canoeing, although these adventures require planning and preparation in such a remote wilderness.
Paddling through the park provides a completely different perspective of the landscape, with mountains, forests, rivers, and wildlife all around you.
Look for Other Wildlife
Brown bears may steal the show, but they aren’t the only wildlife you’ll find here. Wolves, foxes, caribou, moose, and numerous bird species also call Katmai home.
Even when you’re not specifically looking for wildlife, there’s always a sense that something could appear around the next bend.
Camp in the Wilderness
For those who want to spend more time in the park, Brooks Camp Campground provides an opportunity to stay overnight near the heart of the Katmai experience. Backcountry camping is also available for those prepared for a more remote adventure.
Spending the night gives you something a day trip can’t—the chance to experience Katmai after the day visitors have left.
Join a Ranger Program
Ranger-led programs can add another layer to a visit. Depending on the season and location, programs may include hikes, wildlife talks, and presentations about the area’s natural and cultural history.
Exploring Katmai National Park: Our Boots-on-the-Ground Adventure
This was not our first bear-viewing adventure. Back in 2012, we took a fly-in trip to Wolverine Creek with High Adventure Air. Although we were there early in the season, we were thrilled to see both brown and black bears searching for pink salmon in the area.
We returned to Wolverine Creek in 2021, but this time we were there to fish for red salmon. We had also spotted bears in the distance during our visit to Denali National Park, but we had never experienced them quite this close.
That was about to change.
We were staying two nights at Brooks Camp, and we relished every minute of being right in the middle of bear country.
Unfortunately, we arrived a little early in the salmon season, so there weren’t many fish jumping at Brooks Falls. That meant we didn’t get to see the classic sight of a bear catching a salmon at the lip of the falls.
But Katmai had something else in store for us.
We saw plenty of female bears with cubs wandering around the lodge and camp area, along with several subadult bears. Watching them move through the area as if it were simply their backyard gave us a completely different perspective on what it means to visit a truly wild place.
Katmai’s Wildlife Goes Beyond Bears
The bears may steal the spotlight, but they’re certainly not the only wildlife you’ll encounter around Katmai. During our mornings and evenings exploring Brooks Camp, we quickly discovered that there was always something else to watch.
On our first morning, we encountered a feisty pair of Greater Yellowlegs with their young along the Spit Road. They were not particularly happy about our presence and made sure we knew it.
Greater Yellowlegs become highly territorial during breeding season, and these birds put on quite a show trying to defend their territory. Between the aerial displays, aggressive posturing, and their loud, distinctive calls, they certainly got our attention.
It was a good reminder that in Katmai, you don’t have to be looking for bears to have a wildlife encounter.
Every morning and evening we walked on either the beach or the spit road. Both these times are good for wildlife watching. Bears, in particular, use the beach as a highway of sorts to get to and from the river.
Exploring the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
One of the experiences that really showed us there was more to Katmai than bears was exploring the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. This vast volcanic landscape was created by the 1912 eruption of Novarupta, one of the largest volcanic eruptions of the 20th century.
The journey into the valley takes you through an incredible landscape of volcanic ash, rugged canyons, and mountains. The farther we traveled, the more the scenery seemed to change, creating an almost otherworldly feeling.
The route into the valley is approximately 23 miles, with several river crossings along the way. This isn’t a quick walk from Brooks Camp, but rather an adventure into one of the most fascinating geological landscapes in Alaska.
For us, this was the perfect reminder that Katmai is much more than a place to watch bears. The volcanic forces that shaped this landscape are just as much a part of the park’s story as the wildlife.
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is another reason Katmai is so much more than a bear-viewing destination. Created by the massive 1912 eruption of Novarupta, the valley is filled with volcanic ash, pumice, rugged canyons, and an otherworldly landscape.
Located about 22 miles from Brooks Camp, reaching the valley takes some planning. Visitors can take the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Natural History Tour or explore the area on a more challenging backcountry adventure.
We have a separate post dedicated to exploring this fascinating volcanic landscape, where we go into much more detail about the eruption, the tour, the landscape, and what you can expect when visiting the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.
Bear Wilderness of Katmai National Park: Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Adventure
The is a valley in Katmai National Park and Preserve. The valley is the site of one of the most massive volcanic eruption of Novarupta occurred in 1912. It reshaped the landscape, burying the valley in tons of ash, pumice, and volcanic debris. The name “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes” comes from the thousands of steam vents that still rise from the valley floor.
Today, the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is 22 miles from Katmai’s Brooks camp. It attracts hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. The valley is accessible by trekking miles by foot or expensive flightseeing tours. However, there are daily bus tours that can be booked from Brooks Camp. The “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Natural History Tour” is an all-day excursion that requires you to make a reservation in advance, preferably before you arrive.
Taking in the otherworldly views while enjoying their packed lunch was breathtaking, they stated. After a quick bite, their small group ventured into the valley using the Ukak Falls Trail. The trail is 3.5 miles out-and-back. After a mile of descent, through lowland shrubs, the trail follows Margot Creek. You can see pyroclastic flow from the 1912 Novarupta eruption up close on the hike to Ukak Falls. The river carved the deep gouge through the softer volcanic ash. They told us the eroded walls were incredible.
Note: If you plan on fishing or hiking you’ll need sturdy hiking shoes, insect repellent or head net,, sunscreen. If you are out in the backcountry bear spray (which can be rented or purchased at the park), a camera, binoculars, and any personal camping gear. Bring a refillable water bottle since there is a refill station located in the lodge.
Fly Fishing the Brooks River
While bears may get most of the attention at Brooks Camp, fly fishing the Brooks River offers another incredible way to experience Katmai. The river flows between Naknek Lake and Lake Brooks and is known for its salmon runs as well as some impressive rainbow trout.
We decided to hire a guide for a half-day fishing trip, hoping to catch rainbow trout. Our previous fishing experiences on the Kenai River and Chena River came in handy, although fishing the Brooks River was a completely different experience.
Our guide, Jon Kuiper of JWK Images, provided the equipment and selected a variety of single-hook artificial flies to tempt the large rainbows. We were fishing with 9-foot, 7-weight fly rods and floating line.
I’ll admit, I’m not the greatest fly caster. During our four hours on the river, I had at least six takes but couldn’t get any of them to the net.
Barry, on the other hand, had much better luck.
He landed a massive 26-inch rainbow trout, earning himself a spot on the Brooks Lodge fishing board. These fish are known for their beautiful colors, impressive size, and acrobatic fights, and watching that big rainbow battle the line was quite a thrill.
I wasn’t going home empty-handed, though.
On my last cast, I finally redeemed myself. It wasn’t exactly a textbook catch—I didn’t even realize I had hooked the fish until it darted out of the water—but fortunately, we managed to get it into the net.
After all that, catching a rainbow trout on my last cast felt pretty darn good.
Standing in the Brooks River, surrounded by the incredible scenery of Katmai, was an experience we’ll never forget. For us, it was another reminder that Katmai offers far more than bear viewing.
Anglers can fish for salmon, Arctic Char, and Rainbows in the Brooks River below the falls. Brooks River is fly fishing only, and anglers must use single, barbless hooks. The river is catch and release only except downstream of the bridge.
TIP: When heading to Brooks Lodge, be sure to pack these essential items: a cozy fleece jacket or sweater, your belongings, sturdy walking shoes or boots, sunglasses, rain gear, a camera with extra memory cards, long-sleeve shirts, and don’t forget mosquito repellent along with a scarf or hat for your journey.
Staying at Brooks Lodge
Spending two nights at Brooks Lodge gave us the chance to experience Katmai beyond a quick day trip. Our cabin was rustic but comfortable, with bunk beds and a private bathroom. We didn’t spend much time inside, though. There was simply too much to see outside.
We spent our days exploring, watching the river from the bridge, and looking for wildlife. In the evenings, we enjoyed the lodge’s relaxed atmosphere, sharing stories with other travelers and anglers around the fire.
Staying at Brooks Lodge allowed us to slow down and experience Katmai as a place rather than simply a destination for bear viewing.
Final Thoughts on Katmai National Park Alaska
We came to Katmai hoping for the ultimate bear experience, but our June visit didn’t quite deliver the Bear Bonanza we had imagined. The salmon were late, and we didn’t see bears fishing at Brooks Falls.
Would we do it all again? Absolutely.
What surprised us was how little that mattered once we were there. We loved our time at Brooks Camp—the fishing, the wildlife, the wilderness, and simply being surrounded by the incredible landscape of Katmai. Spending two nights in this remote corner of Alaska gave us the chance to slow down and appreciate the park for what it is, rather than simply checking bears off our wildlife bucket list.
We may not have witnessed hundreds of bears gathered at Brooks Falls, but we still feel incredibly fortunate to have experienced Katmai National Park Alaska. From Brooks River to the volcanic landscape of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, this is a place where the wilderness is the real star.
Katmai taught us that sometimes the adventure isn’t about seeing exactly what you came for. It’s about everything you discover along the way.
Have You Visited Katmai?
Have you had the chance to explore Katmai National Park? Did you visit for the bears, fishing, volcanoes, or another adventure? We’d love to hear about your experience in the comments!
