Valuable History at the Old Fort Meade Museum

Anyone who has even the slightest interest in the important history of the Black Hills should plan a visit to the Old Fort Meade museum. They founded Fort Meade in the late 19th century (1878) to protect the new Dakota frontier settlements at the beginning of the gold rush era, when they illegally entered upon the reservation of the Sioux nation in the Black Hills. The museum chronicles 66 years (1878-1944) with personal accounts and stories that describe important events.

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Getting to Old Fort Meade Museum

Museum at Fort Meade is open Mondays through Saturdays from10am to 5pm May through October. A self-guided tour is $5 dollars. A small gift shop has t-shirts, books, and small souvenir items. The restroom was clean. They tastefully decorated it with this little gem pictured below (Novelty 2 Holer Outhouse). Gave me a smile.

Directions from Rapid City – I-90 W/US-14 W/SD-79 N via EXIT 1A on the left toward Gillette. Take the Junction Ave exit, EXIT 32, toward I-90 Bus Loop. Keep right to take the ramp toward the Motorcycle Museum. Turn right onto Lazelle St/SD-34/SD-79. Continue to follow SD-34/SD-79 for 1.39-miles. Turn slight right onto Comanche Rd. Turn right onto 4th St. Turn right onto Sheridan Rd.

From Spearfish, Devils Tower, or Sundance – I-90 E/US-14 E toward Whitewood. Take the Lazelle St/SD-34 E/SD-79 N/US-14A W exit, EXIT 30, toward I-90 Bus Loop/Deadwood-Lead. Turn left onto Lazelle St/US-14A E/SD-34/SD-79. Stay straight to go onto Lazelle St/US-14A E/SD-34/SD-79. Continue to follow SD-34/SD-79. Turn slight right onto Comanche Rd. Turn right onto 4th St. Turn right onto Sheridan Rd.

History & Building of Fort Meade

Not like Fort Clinch or Fort Jefferson, which are traditional masonry forts. Rather, this fort is not confined within walls. Fort Meade became the home for the Seventh Cavalry after the defeat at Battle of the Little Bighorn. The fort is named in honor of Major General George G. Meade. His victory at Gettysburg was a turning point in the Civil War. General Philip Henry Sheridan chose the specific location to replace the temporary camp near Bear Butte.

The first post commander (1879) was Col. Samuel D. Sturgis 7th Cavalry. He was the product of a military family having both his father and uncle serve in the Army. His son, Second Lieutenant James G. Sturgis, died during the battle of the Little Big Horn. The original army post was west of Bear Butte and called Camp Sturgis to honor 2nd Lt. Jack Sturgis. The town of Sturgis erected a statue dedicated to Samuel D. Sturgis at the City Park.

Old Fort Meade Museum Building

They listed the Fort Meade District on the outskirts of Sturgis in the National Register of Historic Places in May 1973. Currently, the Museum is in the Old Headquarters Building next to the historic Parade Ground. The museum’s collection of historical artifacts includes photographs, handwritten diary letters, uniforms, military weapons through timeline displays covering 3 floors. The timeline memorabilia progresses from First Nations peoples to the current military use of the post.

Start Your Self-Guided Tour

For a better understanding of the exhibits, watch the introductory video. Begin your exploration of the exhibits on the first floor. The displays then will be in chronological order, beginning with the origins of the First Nations through to the end of WWII.

The museum gives a comprehensive interpretation of how the First Peoples lived prior to the invasion of the fur trappers and pioneers. We read through the detailed writings on the conflict that developed as more and more gold seekers reached the area, displacing the Cheyenne and Lakota from their reservation lands (1868 Fort Laramie Treaty).

1876 Little Big Horn Exhibit

 Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer’s battle of the Little Big Horn in June 1876 was a highlight. The Red Horse pictographic accounts, notes on the key officers and miniatures all painted a picture of the battle. Since we had already been to the Crazy Horse Memorial, we understood his successes. The total 7th Cavalry dead was an astounding 278 men. Notable soldiers were Major Reno (yes Ella Sturgis peeper), Captain Frederick Benteen, Captain Myles Keogh and Captain Myles Moylan. Only Reno and Moylan survived.

Reno Room Exhibit

Lots of military history. Glimpse into the daily lives of the military personnel stationed at the fort. Many of the handwritten letters gave us a different perspective. One detailed letter that stuck with me was the unfortunate saga between Major Marcus Reno and Ella Sturgis. Reading it, I felt so bad for Major Reno when he became infatuated with Ella, the daughter of his commander, General Sturgis. It was a poor choice for him to peer at her through their window. So Ella screamed.

Sturgis showed no mercy since he blamed Reno for failing to assist Custer and his son, Jack Sturgis, at Little Big Horn. So unsettled her father took drastic steps and had the Major court martialled. Dishonorably discharged, he never recovered from the sad event.

Historic Dakota Territory Conflict Exhibits

We continued to wander through the rooms. Displays on the Buffalo Soldiers from the 25th US Infantry, the 4th US Cavalry, that both served at Fort Meade. The display for Buffalo soldiers was small, but the information was interesting. The buffalo coats and winter wear issued to the soldiers offered some protection from the cold Dakota territorial blizzards.

Additional displays are depictions of A Day in the Life of a soldier, the real safe used by the 7th Cavalry in 1878-1888 later used during the filming Dances with Wolves in 1989, and Comanche the horse only living thing left on the battlefield at Little Big Horn. After the battle, they brought Comanche to Fort Meade. They later sent him to the University of Kansas. They preserved him after death.

World War Exhibits

The 88th Glider Infantry Regiment was stationed here during World War II (1943). The exhibits included Nazi artifacts and memorabilia. Some may find the displays in this room somewhat disturbing. Later exhibits had Klu Klux Klan items on display highlighting the turmoil experienced by our nation. This may be offensive to some, but it is a part of our history and should not be ignored. Learning from our mistakes can help us avoid repeating them.

The German Soldiers of Rommel’s Afrika Korps POWs were kept at Fort Meade. Many of these prisoners were happy to be away from the poor living conditions of war. They developed craft items that are shown in this museum. I especially found the surgical tools interesting and frightening at the same time. The needles were huge-OUCH! I could not imagine how unsterile the conditions must have been. There is even a section dedicated to the Women’s Corp (WACs). The crisp uniforms worn by the women of the time looked very vogue.

One room setup as a typical parlor in the WWII era was a tad creepy. It had period mannequins dressed in fancy dress clothing and dolls. Maybe I’ve watched too many horror films.

Second Floor Auditorium

The second floor is a dedicated auditorium where they hung the different flags of Fort Meade. We Perused the archeological items neatly displayed in glass cases along the wall. Later, I learned they were collected during the construction of the parking lot. 

There is not a lot of appeal for smaller children in the museum, however they have a children’s corner on this floor. Kids engage in draw activities and can also place pins on a map locating their hometown. Smaller children would understand how frontier life differed from today if they had access to the teacher’s desk from the late 19th century.

Basement Diorama Rooms

Don’t forget the basement rooms. The life-sized dioramas portray life in the late 1880s and WWII. One room was setup as a blacksmith shop. Another contains farm equipment such as iron plows, scythes, balers, and other implements used by the early prairie settlers. Two rooms are WWII timeframe. They’ve set one up as a typical hospital room, the other room has a 1942 Harley-Davidson Motorcycle and soldier messenger in a bunker setting.

Today’s Fort Meade

Even though the fort is no longer active, the South Dakota National Guard continues to use it as a military installation. It serves as a training site by the 196th Regiment of Officer Candidate School and a Veterans Health Administration hospital. Training is required to determine whether someone is physically and mentally capable of becoming a commissioned officer.

Many of the original turn-of-the-century buildings surround the parade grounds. Today, they used many of the buildings for offices, dormitories, or administration. The old theater, gymnasium, and horse stables are not open to the public at this time.

Did you Know!-Interesting Facts on Old Fort Meade

Did you know that our national anthem, the Star-Spangled Banner, actually got its start at Fort Meade? At his wife’s suggestion, the 8th Cavalry’s Colonel Caleb H. Carlton, who served at the post in 1892, directed people to stand and pay proper respect to the “Star-Spangled Banner” at evening military ceremonies before it became the National Anthem. They dedicated a historic marker on the parade grounds, telling the story behind the anthem.  

Alice “Poker Alice” Tubbs, was a colorful character who smoked cigars and won her way in a man’s world through cards. Dealing and playing poker to ease her debt after the death of her husband in 1910. Highly educated and respected, she was a legendary lady who did not work on Sundays. The saloon establishment, or “Poker’s Palace” resort that she operated, created great tension for the officers at Fort Meade. Not only did she solicit gambling and liquor, but she provided women as well. Eventually, a small riot ended with her arrest after she shot the man. However, the establishment did not prevail even after being found not guilty since it was self defense. She continued to play poker and ran a bordello in Sturgis till her death in 1930 at the age of 79.

Note: Always bring plenty of water walking the parade ground in the hot summer.

Fort Meade National Cemetery

Behind the parade grounds, just up the hill, is the Fort Meade National Cemetery (1878). One notable gravesite is that of Private Abram B. Brant. He received the Medal of Honor while serving in the 7th U.S. Cavalry, died in action at the battle of the Little Big Horn. It is a short 2-miles on Old Stone Road to the 2-acre cemetery. No new internments are allowed here, however the plot has 235 soldiers and families buried.

Final Thoughts-Old Fort Meade Museum

If you find yourself in Sturgis, South Dakota, and love history, we recommend taking some time out of your schedule to visit the Old Fort Meade Museum. Give yourself plenty of time to walk and read the useful information. It is definitely an old school museum but has a variety of exhibits to interest everyone. This trip can easily be combined with a drive down the scenic Spearfish Creek Byway or a visit to Devils Tower in Wyoming.

Have you visited this museum? Would this be on your itinerary on your next Sturgis trip? If you have questions of comments, please share them with us.