Table of Contents
Updated June 2023
The Homer Spit is 200-miles from Anchorage, basically the end of the road. Have you added Homer to your bucket list itinerary for Alaska? If not, it should be. I wanted so badly to see the Time Bandit from “Deadliest Catch” alas, we did not get the chance. There are lots of things to do on the drive on the Sterling highway from Soldotna to Homer that are absolutely free! Getting out of the RV, on the road to Homer, walking the trails, and seeing what Alaska offers costs nothing.
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Your Tour Begins in Anchorage
The road to Homer, Alaska, is a scenic drive that offers breathtaking views of the Kenai Peninsula and the Gulf of Alaska.
Alternatively in 2024, you will be able to take a scenic detour along the way by turning left at Cooper Landing onto the Sterling Highway (AK-9), which will take you through the stunning Kenai Mountains and eventually reconnect with the Sterling Highway near Soldotna.
The drive from Anchorage to Homer typically takes around 4-5 hours, depending on traffic and weather conditions. We recommend you plan for additional time to stop and take in the breathtaking scenery along the way.
Sterling Highway: The Road from Soldotna to Homer
Today is a little dismal with rain and a chill in the air. It does not dampen our spirits. This is our Alaska dream RV vacation. We rented an RV from Great Alaskan Holidays to travel the highways and byways of Alaska. Today we are back on the road looking to visit Homer, which lies at the end of the Sterling highway. The small town of Homer has plenty of things to do, from fishing to shopping. For us, the journey begins in Sterling. It is 86-miles or 2 hours’ travel to Homer. We had been camping at Alaska Canoe Creek Campground for a few days and we need to restock our groceries and gas the RV. The Sterling Highway first passed through Soldotna, so we take a little time to explore the city before continuing to Homer.
Visit Soldotna’s Pathways on the Kenai Peninsula
Soldotna is on the Cook Inlet at the mouth of the Kenai River. Some believe that it derives the name from the Dena’ina word, ts’eldat’nu, meaning “trickling down creek.” The river boardwalk hugs the rivers-edge and is a great place to stop and take a stroll before starting your journey towards Homer. You can also fish directly off the bank and try your hand at catching a large king salmon. The visitor center has free Wi-Fi for those RV travelers that need to stay connected. Soldotna also has a ranger station that houses a Bell Sea Ranger helicopter for forest fire prevention. The ranger station can provide maps and general information on the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge.
In town, you can visit the Fred Meyer and purchase just about everything you can think of for your RV roadtrip. Fred Meyer has everything a camper needs. fresh foods, charcoal, fishing tackle, and other camping supplies all in one store.
Watch for Moose on Roadways
As you leave Soldotna, you’ll cross the Kenai River. The river is famous for its salmon fishing, and you might see anglers fishing from the shore or boats. Continuing on the Sterling Highway, we point the RV toward Homer at the end of the road.
This morning, it is foggy. As we climb the hill out of Soldotna, we see a vehicle has hit a moose. Sadly, the moose and vehicle are totaled. A reminder that you need to watch the woods for moose, they run across the road usually to escape the mosquitoes. It can happen so quickly. When we drove through Palmer, the total number of moose killed is shown on the highways signs. It is a constant reminder to take care of when driving the highways in Alaska. One bonus of traveling in the land of the midnight sun is you can drive later in the evening with no darkness.
Stop #1-Kasilof River State Recreational Site
Our first stop is the Kasilof River State Recreational site (MM 109), 15-miles south of Soldotna. This is a popular boat launch day-use area. The drift boats put in/take out at this point in the river. There are approximately 10 campsites here if you want to stay a few days and fish in the river. I wish we had the time to fish them all. Next time!!
The Kasilof River starts at Tustumena Lake, a large lake that is in the middle of the Kenai Peninsula. The glacier-fed river flows towards Cook Inlet. Here the river was running fast when we stopped at the Recreational Boat Landing. Interestingly, there is a fish wheel here that is used to sample and count fish species. The fish wheel was unoccupied today. Sometimes biologists do sonar fish counts at different times of the year.
The Alaska Department of Natural Resources manages the recreation area and is open year-round, although they may limit services and facilities during the winter months. Visitors can access information on the area’s recreational opportunities and regulations at the Kasilof Ranger Station.
Stop #2-Make the Detour to Tustumena Lake
In the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Tustumena Lake is the largest lake. It is actually huge! It is only accessible from the Kasilof River. Tustumena Lake stretches 25-miles and is notorious for sudden wind and waves generated by the Harding Ice Field.
You will need to travel 6.5-miles Tustumena Lake Road to the public boat launch in the Tustumena Lake State Recreation Site. We took the turnoff located off the Sterling Highway near mile marker 111. The boat launch provides access to the lake for boating, fishing, and other water activities.. Mostly used by drift anglers, you can enter the glacial-fed lake from the river.
If time permits, the Tustumena Lake Trail is a public hiking trail that provides access to the lake. The trailhead is at the end of Tustumena Lake Road. We took the gravel road that turns off from the Sterling Highway near mile marker 110. The trail is approximately 13 miles long and offers stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We turned the RV around and headed back towards Homer after realizing we wouldn’t have enough time to complete the entire trail to the lake today.
Stop #3-Clam Gulch Recreational Area
In the parking lot, we saw our first Stellar Jay. Stellar Jays are much larger and prettier than the blue jays we see in Florida. We watching a few anglers launch their drift boats, asking them how the fishing was. Apparently, the fishing has been slow this June. The small town of Clam Gulch is located a few miles off the highway. Extreme tides affect the Cook Inlet. This creates a spectacular opportunity to explore the beach looking for razor clams. If time permits, it is definitely a great place to stop and do razor clamming. If you don’t have your own tools, you can pay a small fee to rent a bucket and rake from certain locations on the beach. Before clamming, be sure to review the rules and secure the required permissions.
Note: The Department of Fish and Game has closed clam digging for this area until further notice.
Whether you’re clamming, enjoying the beaches, or exploring the scenic wonders, Clam Gulch offers a unique Alaskan experience. Its natural beauty, recreational opportunities, and historical charm make it a worthwhile destination for those seeking an authentic coastal Alaska experience.
What Other Recreational Opportunities Exist at Clam Gulch
Here are some additional recreational activities you can experience in Clam Gulch:
- Fishing: There are great fishing opportunities in the area, particularly for halibut and salmon. You can fish in the coastal waters of Cook Inlet from the shore or by chartering a boat.
- Beachcombing is a favorite pastime of ours. I could have spent hours looking at fascinating rock fragments, shells, and other treasures at Clam Gulch Beach.
- Hiking: The Clam Gulch State Recreation Area Trail, a 1.1-mile loop trail on a clear day, there are breathtaking views of of Mount Spurr, Mount Iliamna, and Mount Redoubt across the inlet.
- Camping: There is a year-round campground in the Clam Gulch State Recreation Area with 120 sites for tents and RVs. There are picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms at this seaside campground.
We saw more moose as we drove towards Ninilchik. Driving along the Sterling highway, sitting high in the RV, allows for spectacular views of Cook Inlet.
The volcanic peaks of Mt. Spur, Mt. Illiana, Redoubt, and other peaks could be seen when we looked across the inlet from various locations along the road to Homer. As the route hugs the beach, these breathtaking views never stop. We made several stops at pullouts so we could snap lots of pictures.The broad meadows are carpeted with gorgeous wildflowers in early June. In particular, lupines are abundant; one can see their purple spires all over the fields.
Stop #4-Ninilchik View State Campground
We needed a stretch break, so we walked along the beautiful Ninilchik River. Towering, dense green foliage surrounds the trail. Walking through this patch of Devil’s Club, you realized how easily you could startle a bear. Making a bit of noise as you hike assures us we do not rendezvous with a grizzly. Once we reached the tea-colored river, we tried to see if the fish were running. This 21-mile river is a popular place to fish for trout, Dolly Varden, and several salmon species. Interpretive markers located in the parking lot depicted the journey of native salmon. For those who would like to stay longer and leave their RV parked for a few days, there are a number of established campground sites.
Note: Bears are highly active along most trails in Alaska. Be bear aware, carry bear spray or travel in a group.
The nearby Ninilchik State Recreation Area offers scenic views of the Cook Inlet and the surrounding mountains. There are three campgrounds: Ninilchik Scenic Overlook, Ninilchik View Campground, and Ninilchik River Campground. There are 62 campsites in the park total, and both tents and RVs are welcome. Some sites offer electric and water hookups. Other amenities at the campground include restrooms, showers, a dump station, and a kids’ playground. The park is open year-round, but they may limit some services in the winter months.
Stop #5-Ninilchik Village a Deviation on the Road to Homer
Ninilchik (DENA’INA ATHABASCAN: NIQNILCHINT) means “peaceful settlement by a river.” The village also has a rich history, dating back to the early 1800s when Russian explorers first settled in the area. They settled and subsided on fishing, hunting, fur trapping, and gardening. Later, Alaska was purchased by the United States. Many settlers chose to stay in the village-many descendants of the old families still live here. Ninilchik Village is a small, tight-knit community with a population of around 900 people.
Today, we can still view many of the old buildings, in particular the Russian Orthodox Church and cemetery (MM 135). This is a popular stop. There are signs marking the location and parking for RVs, which are separate. The church also provides marvellous views of the Cook Inlet.
Sterling Highway: Holy Transfiguration of our Lord Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik
The Holy Transfiguration Church is an important spiritual and cultural landmark in the Ninilchik community. It serves as a place of worship for the local Russian Orthodox community and holds significance for its architectural beauty and religious traditions.
In addition to its religious functions, the church also serves as a cultural center, preserving and promoting Russian heritage in Ninilchik. Cultural events, festivals, and gatherings take place at the church, showcasing traditional Russian music, dance, and cuisine. These celebrations foster a sense of community and provide an opportunity for locals and visitors to appreciate and learn about Russian culture.
In Ninilchik, the Holy Transfiguration Church is a beloved and important hub for community, worship, and cultural heritage. Travelers passing through the area can readily visit it because of its location directly off the Sterling Highway. We found it to be a great place to witness the beauty of Russian Orthodox traditions and the hospitality of the locals.
Fishing cruises from here offer world-class salmon and halibut fishing. In recent years, this has become quite popular in the area. Ninilchik village beach is another excellent location to get additional shots of Mt. Iliamna and Mt. Redoubt. We had a fun time watching fly anglers catch early Sockeye (reds) salmon while we were relaxing on the beach.
Stop #6-Deep Creek Recreation Area
A few miles further down the road closer to Homer is Deep Creek Recreational Area, which is accessible from Mile 137 of the Sterling Highway. The recreation area has 100 overnight campsites available for both tent and RV camping. Many of these gravel beachfront sites have stunning views of Cook Inlet and the neighboring mountains. Sites here are on a first-come, first-serve basis. We took a bit of time strolling along the river’s bank as we found ample of parking. Despite being smaller parking lot, the south overlook offers plenty of space for parking RVs.
Deep Creek is legendary for salmon fishing and has lots of excellent fishing opportunities. Anglers can catch salmon, halibut, and other fish species in the nearby waters. The river shoreline is easily accessible.
Hiking, be Bear Aware
There are two scenic parking areas at Deep River, North & South. There is interpretive information on the salmon restoration that is worth the read before hiking the trails. Taking the trail down to the creek, there is plenty of high, lush vegetation. We constantly need to remind ourselves to talk loudly so bears would know we were there.
Note: Remember to bring plenty of water and snacks when hiking. Be bear aware-it is always important to carry bear spray. Alaska is bear country.
We noticed new bear prints in the mud as we wandered beside the creek. While we were there, we did not spot any bears, but it is still vital to be on guard at all times. It is important to remember that bears might bed down in the thick greenery.
There are several ATV trails in the area, offering a fun way to explore the wilderness. Before planning an ATV excursion, it’s essential to check the latest regulations, and pick up any required permits or licenses, and respect any restrictions that may be in place to preserve the natural environment.
Note: Please note that the availability of ATV trails and regulations may have changed since my last update. It’s advisable to contact local authorities or visitor centers in the Ninilchik area for the most up-to-date information and recommendations regarding ATV trails in the region.
Stop #7-Anchor River Recreation Area
Anchor River is the next town along the road to Homer. We wondered how did Anchor Point get its name? Well I guess an incident happened in May 1778 during Captain James Cook’s expedition to explore and map Alaska’s coastline, Cook’s ship, the HMS Resolution, was trying to sail north against the strong tidal waters when it lost a big Kedge anchor. Thus this sleepy coastal town got its name.
The town of Anchor Point is home to hundreds of eagles. If you are looking to photograph eagles, this is your place. They frequent the beach at low tide when a mile or so of the beach becomes exposed. We got our photo taken at the “Most Westerly Highway Point” sign. Here, leisure boaters and charter operators can launch their boats into Cook Inlet using a tractor provided by a private boat launch business.
Anchor River is famous for its long, sandy beach, which stretches for miles in each direction along the coast. Again, we found excellent opportunities for beachcombing. There are also plenty of picnic tables to eat lunch, and enjoying the beautiful scenery. The nearby Anchor River is renowned for its salmon runs, attracting anglers who come to try their luck at catching king, silver, and red salmon.
What’s A WaterBoy?
One of the most fascinating things to do is to watch the launching of the large halibut drift boats. We watched in awe as the “Waterboy” (a converted log skidder) hooked up to the fishing boats. Slowly, it made its way down the shoreline, backing the boat into the surf of the Cook Inlet. The boat captain will then throw the engine in reverse as the waterboy steadily gains depth. Eventually lifting the boat off the trailer. When the boats need to return, they must maintain 6- to 12 knots to be pulled from the water. With the extreme tides here, boats basically drive themselves onto the trailers while the “Waterboy” is running full steam toward the shoreline.
Stop #8-Bay Crest Overlook -Great Spit View
The last hill before you begin your descent into Homer is Bay Crest Overlook (MM 196). If you are looking to photograph the well-known homer spit, stop here. You also get 180-degree views of Kachemak Bay. In the distance there are far-off glaciers, tucked into the towering mountains. From the overlook, on a clear day you can get good pics of the renown homer spit. Many vehicles, including RVs, have plenty of space to park in the lot. This is a must-do stop for snapping a picture with the Welcome to Homer sign. A nature trail has Interpretive signage with good details about Homer’s past. One interesting interpretive panel caught our eye. It describes how a group of prospectors became stranded and their ordeal.
The astounding quantity of eagles that soar along the bluff’s edge surprised me. It was thrilling to watch. Taking shots of them while they’re in flight is not so simple. If you have binoculars, use them to get the best up-close views of the Homer spit. The nature gardens along the trail edge are full of native Alaskan wildflowers, especially n the spring. Leaving the overlook behind, we descend the hill, pointing the RV towards the Homer Spit to do some sightseeing.
Stop #9-Homer Alaska–At the “End of the Road”–The Adventure Begins!
The Homer Spit is a 4.5-mile-long strip of land that extends into Kachemak Bay. It’s a popular spot with visitors who enjoy for fishing, shopping, dining, and wildlife watching. If you have time in your itinerary, the scenic roads around Homer offer endless views of the surrounding mountains, glaciers, and ocean. Drive out to the end of East End Road for some of the best views.
Dead End The Homer Spit is the “Real” End of the Highway
Today we experience the cloudy, cold blustery windy as we parked the RV on the Spit. Surrounded by wilderness and ocean, Homer is at the end of the Sterling Highway. Homer is has a population of about 5500 people. The Homer Spit is a narrow stretch of land the juts out into the bay. In some places, the spit is only about 300 yards wide. Driving this sand spit into the Kachemak Bay is an experience. I suggest stopping to visit the Homer Visitor Center first to get updates on roads and weather. They also share events and happenings in and around town.
What are the Best Things to See & Do in Homer?
There are plenty of things to keep you busy in Homer, Alaska. From recreational opportunities, or learning history, or just enjoying the natural environment.
The spit is home to campgrounds, shops, guided fishing excursions all within the harbor area. Today there are only a few people willing to brave the weather, so we easily found parking in the gravel lot. I can imagine that on nice days it would limit parking.
#1-Pin a Dollar Bill @ Salty Dawg Saloon
This is a must-do stop for any visitor. The iconic Salty Dog Saloon is the quintessential touristy destination for any Homer visitor. The bar has a long history, having been in operation since 1957. So it is one of the oldest bars in Homer. The Saloon offers a variety of bar food and drinks, including beer and cocktails.
The bar is renowned for both live music events and its rustic ambiance. In my opinion, this structure resembled a fisherman’s cottage that is affixed to a shingled lighthouse. The inside is tiny and claustrophobic. We only stopped to take a peek inside before securing our dollar to a portion of the ceiling. We left the bar without stopping for a drink.
#2-Try an Excursion to Go Fishing at the Homer Marina
We know Homer as the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” and there are plenty of fishing charters available for both halibut and salmon. The marina is chock full of large and small fishing boats. I know I was looking for the world-famous crab boat called the “Time Bandit”. We did not see the boat, but lots of crab traps were visible throughout the waters of Kachemak Bay. If you can’t go fish for halibut, then you need to eat it! We stopped for lunch at the Mariner Restaurant (now the Chart House). The halibut fish and chips plates were delicious. The view of the marina is nice too!
#3- Shop the Harbourview Boardwalk
Walking back to the RV, we continued along the Harbourview Boardwalk gallery of shops (sometimes called Cannery Row or Homer Shores). Inua The Spirit of Alaska quality, unique one-of-a-kind design pieces, all reasonably priced. The craftsmanship was exquisite. We purchased a blanket and some jewelry for Barry’s sister and mom. They specialize in sterling silver jewelry made with mammoth tooth and fossilized walrus tusk. Lots of specialties from niche stores along the boardwalk.
NOTE: it is more expensive to purchase on the spit, the same can be said for dining.
#4-Seafarer’s Memorial A Striking Bronze Sculpture
There’s a somber reminder just across the street from the Salty Dog Saloon. The rugged coastline of Kachemak Bay provides a striking background for the Seafarers Memorial. The memorial recognizes the efforts of the nautical community of Homer to pay respect to the men and women who have lost their lives at sea. It acknowledges the risks and costs involved in living on these waters. We believe that going to the Seafarers Memorial is a great way to honor the area’s maritime history and the people who have made important contributions to the nautical way of life.
#5-Explore Natural History at the Pratt Museum
The Pratt Museum is a cultural hub that celebrates the history, art, and natural beauty of the Kachemak Bay area. Whether you’re interested in learning about the region’s indigenous cultures, exploring the diverse ecosystems, or experiencing the vibrant art scene, the museum offers a comprehensive and engaging experience for visitors of all backgrounds. We spent an hour just reading the interpretive exhibits and wandering the lovely front gardens.
#6-Research and Conservation at the Alaska Islands and Ocean Visitor Center
Managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the center focuses on the marine and coastal ecosystems of the Gulf of Alaska and the Aleutian Islands. The Alaska Islands and Ocean Visitor Center in Homer is a fantastic resource for anyone interested in learning about the marine and coastal ecosystems of Alaska. With its informative exhibits, wildlife viewing opportunities, and educational programs, the center provides a comprehensive and engaging experience for visitors of all ages. This was our first stop to get informational brochures and walk the trails.
The Beluga Slough Trail A Scenic Hiking Experience
Near the heart of Homer, at the back of the visitor center, you can find the Beluga Slough Trail. It is a wetland and estuarine habitat known for its diverse birdlife and scenic beauty.
The trail is a loop trail winding through the wetland march. It gave us opportunities to observe the rich plant and animal life that thrives in this habitat. The trail is approximately 1.5 miles long and is relatively flat, making it suitable for hikers at all skill levels. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, bird lover, or simply seeking a tranquil walk, the Beluga Slough Trail in Homer is definitely worth exploring.
The Magic Of Homer the End of the Road
Homer, Alaska, has many other outdoor recreation opportunities. Here are some additional things to do in Homer if you have extra time:
- Visit Kachemak Bay State Park a 400,000-acre wilderness park that offers hiking, camping, fishing, and kayaking opportunities. Take a water taxi from Homer to the park’s various trailheads.
- Take a wildlife tour. Homer is home to a variety of wildlife, including bald eagles, moose, bears, and whales. Take a guided tour to get a chance to see them up close.
- Take a flightseeing tour. See the beauty of the area from the air with a flightseeing tour. Fly over glaciers, volcanoes, and stunning mountain ranges. Bear viewing trips to Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park or Lake Clark National Park are popular in the summer.
- Go Kayaking a great way to explore the waterways around Homer and get up close to wildlife like otters and sea lions.
- The Wynn Nature Center is a nature reserve located just outside of Homer. It features a network of trails that traverse diverse habitats, including forests, meadows, and wetlands. The trails vary in difficulty and offer opportunities for wildlife viewing, birdwatching, and learning about the local flora and fauna.
DINING RECOMMENDATION: On our first trip, we dined on the spit at the Chart Room for its picturesque views of Kachemak Bay. Unfortunately, it is very overpriced. On our last trip, we really enjoyed the Duncan House Diner for more authentic local cuisine. Highly recommend it.
Final Thoughts on Driving from Soldotna to Homer
Driving from Soldotna to Homer provides a chance to experience the breathtaking landscapes, wildlife, and coastal charm of the Kenai Peninsula. Enjoy the journey and create unforgettable memories along the way.
We turned the RV around at Land’s End on the Homer spit and headed back down the Sterling highway towards Soldotna. Our destination for this evening is the RV is Johnson’s Lake State Recreation Area for our overnight stay. Homer has given us a few glorious memories. I hope you get the chance to make it to the end of the road and see what Homer, Alaska, offers!
Have you visited Homer, Alaska? What activities and sights did you like best? Drop us a comment below on your adventure or tell us what you would like to see along the way!
